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SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

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OLDGUNNER
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#121 Post by OLDGUNNER » Sat Dec 08, 2018 4:48 pm

http://www.ammo-one.com/735MMCAR.html

Holy Moly – 7.35 Clips for 15 $...and surplus ammo for 40 $ without clips. If someone would like some, I sure could part with some at far less than this....all new looking. One thing, the primers have deteriorated to the point of 20 to 30 % or so misfires. (1939) Manufacturer. Can supply pictures of exact purchases, etc. In original 18 round sealed boxes or opened. I have never done this before so don’t know the procedure.
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#122 Post by OLDGUNNER » Mon Dec 10, 2018 4:27 pm

Topic - accuracy...or Off Topic accuracy?

Just the other day I was visiting a Lady Doctor for the first time and after 10 minutes maybe she told me that I had a fife expectancy Bell Curve of 3 years. I do not recall ever having a doctor tell me this before. And I said, ”Bell Curve?” And she said, “Yes, you are going on 85 and your Bell Curve peaks out at 3 years.” Okay, I understand...it just didn’t sound too good that way. I just looked at this chart and it gives me 5.7 years. A conundrum...which do I believe? Do I have a choice on this? https://www.lifeexpectancycalculators.c ... ables.html

One may want to know their ‘Bell curve’ on this.
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#123 Post by Smokey » Mon Dec 10, 2018 5:04 pm

What condition you're in (you're health) and how you live (diet and exercise) make the most difference. That leaves out traffic accidents and the like.
Arguing with someone who denounces reason is like administering medicine to a corpse.

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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#124 Post by OLDGUNNER » Sun Dec 16, 2018 5:07 pm

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Here is the main reason that I don’t get an elk or deer license any more. My first year here I bought both a deer and elk license...and that was it, no more. This isn’t hunting around here. It is just load your gun and shoot them. They migrate from the mountains to the lowlands for the winter passing through here. My first year here I shot this poor bull elk just because he walked in front of me just watching over his girls, not bothering me one bit. And all my neighbors seem to feel the same way. But the guys from out of state pay 400 + for an elk....a poor defenseless elk. When I grew up as a kid I was an avid hunter so I know what that is like but there was always a sport to it. My dad bought me a .22 in the fall just before my 6 th birthday...so I know the difference. A few days ago a bull and his ‘party’ stopped by in our gully for a night and day. Our big dog recognizes the deer and elk as her friends and won’t dare bark at them or chase them. One time I talked a deer to within 10 feet of me – I have it’s picture here some where. And some how the deer recognizes our dog as a friend and will come within 10 or 15 feet to say Hi.
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#125 Post by OLDGUNNER » Mon Dec 17, 2018 3:49 pm

BHN lead tester- - - Here is a picture of ‘one’ of my BHN testers that I have made that reads out directly. Years ago when I first started hearing all of the noise about the cast bullets being made harder by dropping in water when hot and heat treating in ovens, etc., I thought wait a minute, this defies everything that I had been taught about metals. So, I had to find out for myself just what the heck was going on. I took various lead and lead alloy pieces and tested for hardness. And then melted and dropped in cold water, I dropped them in ice water and even dropped them in ice water in salt saturated water, which is colder than plain ice water. And for one batch of wheel weights I got a BHN of 15 repeatedly to the nearest BHN. And after maybe two to three dozen tests before melting and after in water dropping, I got a BHN reading of 15, with ‘each’ piece to the nearest BHN every time...every time.
So...you can imagine just what I think when I see all of the comments made by bullet caster’s and their water dropping. Yes, to me, I found out just what was going on....And, AND...it still goes on....a wonderment among wonderings. The story behind ‘Shot Towers’ should explain it all to the curious and when ‘Chilled’ shot became popular, It was a misnomer and misleading when it was called ‘Chilled Shot’. I will think that it was the addition of arsenic that made it harder, not the chilling that it got from falling in the shot towers.

Oh well, I get a reading that says my picture file is “Too large” for this forum program to accept. I see this every once in a while – It’s just that this system is having a bad day, it may accept it later on. Maybe it has to do with the forum text plus the picture. I will try to send the picture just by its self next.

Another one of these ‘people’ problems is the hogwash about the contamination of one’s lead melt with zinc. This is just another story that some people will believe and pass on as something that they really really ‘KNOW’ for sure. I can read on other forums that lately some have realized the problem with this idea and have debunked this but there is still that 90 % out there don’t understand what is going on.

I can see where ‘some’ of this problem may be based on the local AC power being provided to their home. The regular AC power voltage supplied can vary quite a bit...I would say an average may be like 110 to 125 volts. Our’s happens to be usually close to 124 volts. And when this gets to as low as 110 or lower, there may be a problem of the typical lead melting pot not being able to melt lead with more than about 1 % zinc of mixture. Anyone can look at a Phase Chart of lead and zinc mixture and see that the melting temperature rises sharply beyond about 1 % zinc. And this will probable be beyond, way beyond, the capabilities of the normal lead melting pot of the typical bullet caster. I wouldn’t even bother to be messing with mixtures higher than about 1% zinc. But I can go to the 99 % zinc and make nice hard cast bullets just fine. And as well, I wouldn’t let that alloy mixture get above about 1 % lead.

Oh heck. they have problems around here with the AC voltage, big expensive problems. With a relative high voltage of say the 124 volts, and the lines get a lightning strike and wham... we are setting here right now with a worthless Dish Washer in our kitchen. My wife said that another neighbor told her that their Washer was burned out at the same time – that delicate electronic circuitry.
When we first moved here it was a small subdivision, completely surrounded by National Forest and it was said that everyone had to take their turn at keeping the 24,000 gallon water storage tank with water from our private well. There were only two other house holds here and the system was...as the water pressure seemed low, one was to climb up the hill at the highest point where the storage tank was and climb the ladder and unlock the top-side hatch and look in side and guess just how long to go down to the well and turn on the pump for. I at least knew enough to install a water pressure gage in our utility room to be able to read when it was time to turn on the pump. But as new other people moved in and they would go on vacations and such...yes, we would run out out of water.
So I went to a local plumbing shop and, oh yes, we have the perfect solution for that...we have this system that automatically takes care of this. We don’t carry them in stock but we can have one in a week...at four thousand dollars, plus installation.
So I designed an automatic system with no transistors or chips and no sensitive components and asked the HOA president if I could buy the parts and make our own...he was the type that would not know how to replace a house-hold light switch and said no. I got him relieved of his duties and the new HOA president said okay. For 150 dollars I made the system, and it has not faltered one bit since, and that was 20 years ago.
A while back I was talking to a fellow that lived in a large subdivision with 80 some homes, he said that they were having problems with these expensive automatic water systems, and they had two wells with water storage systems . This state is just full of private wells and water systems...and one should wonder why someone doesn’t sell a simple system like I designed, or worse yet just make one for themself. I can’t make and sell them, and don’t want too, or even tell one how to make their own...because of all the personal injury lawyers out there that would not care who they could sue.
I will tell you this much, just look at a ‘Murphy Switch’ and go from there...I paid one hundred dollars for one 20 years ago, now I see them for 49. Our navy submarines are full of Murphy Switches.
And our HOA president wanted to add a regular outside light at the pump house to tell when the the water pump was on...and he did. He calls himself a computer engineer but after the light bulbs stated burning out after a few months at this relative high voltage of 124 volts he could not understand why I would suggest that he install a regular 230 volt light bulb instead of regular 120 volt bulb. And I did not want to bother telling him why. He would not like to see a 230 volt light bulb in the socket so I modified the voltage to the light bulb without telling him and it has burned for 20 years without burning out. Yes, the same 120 volt light bulb.
I tried to tell a fellow on a forum years ago about the lead and zinc thing but he was never in a listening mode – all of those out there that just blindly believed this just couldn’t be wrong.
One of my ideas I had in 1957 found its way onto the moon with the first manned lunar landing.
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#126 Post by OLDGUNNER » Mon Dec 17, 2018 4:31 pm

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Here is my picture of my BHN tester - now the file is not too large - It may have been too large in combination with my text....or whatever.
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#127 Post by OLDGUNNER » Mon Dec 17, 2018 6:03 pm

Here are a couple of picture that I took at the bottom of the Pacific Ocean, at least where we were.
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#128 Post by OLDGUNNER » Mon Dec 17, 2018 6:25 pm

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Here is a BHN tester that I would normally use - just read the diameter of the indentation from my chart....can't be much simpler than this. I have made a few of these...with the official size of the round steel balls.
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#129 Post by OLDGUNNER » Tue Dec 18, 2018 9:49 am

We have heard that, “The more one learns, the less they know.” That is probably chiseled in stone some where. But boy oh boy this couldn’t be more true. With linseed oil, once when one knows a little bit about it, there is suddenly a whole lot that they don’t know about it.
In the late 50’s I tried to use it on gun stocks. My gosh, I found that it just seemed to never dry. I just wasn’t having any luck at all. And there was no such thing as the internet web of course. But I heard of GB’s LinSpeed Oil...George Brother’s LinSpeed Oil, so I bought a little 2 once jar. And suddenly I could put a real ‘Oil’ finish on a gun stock...and each coat dried over night. That was the big thing, it dried over night. So I thought that since this stuff was fairly expensive I would try to experiment and duplicate it. Well, I never could, not even come close. Bill White has really kept this a company proprietary secret, and more power to him. He is a super nice guy...but his stuff retails for 160 and some dollars a gallon by the 2 ounce jar. I don’t begrudge him of that one bit. But I would to come up with something that may work just as good. And a pet peeve of mine is where some will say that such and such will work and is ‘so’, without really doing it themselves just because they had read it and it is completely bum-dope. It is so easy to say ‘that this is something that I have read’. Bill White has a ‘YouTube’ video under LinSpeed oil. I just add a few steps beyond that. And, AND, I am saying that these are things that I just have done personally. This reminds me of the old saying, “Going off half-cocked.” This means to me that at one time it may have been perfectly okay to carry one’s muzzle loader in full-cock – wow.

To ‘clarifying’ linseed oil...so I bought a new quart of Raw Linseed oil. I understand, but have not verified, that Washed, Purified or Clarified Linseed Oil is probable the same thing but ‘not’ the regular Boiled Linseed oil. The other day I had ‘clarified’ some raw linseed oil and it sure acts different than the non clarified oil. I can see where clarified linseed oil can be sold for as high as 35 $ a pint...and I have no idea just what it is typically used for. Just tonight I mixed some water with some Boiled Linseed Oil, and shook it for 15 minutes, to see how it would come out. For me it didn’t come out the same.
I have read, just read that Boiled Linseed Oil gets this name from originately being boiled of course but commercially made by adding a Whiting, a Calcium compound such as CaCO3 and ‘boiling’ it chemically or by adding a metallic oxide. I have both so will try these also. But in the mean time I just found out that the clarifying with water sure does a bang-up job for decreasing the drying time. After giving bare wood 5 to 10 thin coats to seal the wood a heavier coat of my clarified oil will dry in say 6 hours of so. Now the relative humidity here is 30 % or so now-a-days, and of course that has lot to do with it. But drying over night and ‘Never’ is a big difference.

I have yet to try using the Whiting to clarify and mix my clarified oil with Turpentine and Polyurethane. I plan to start out with 1:1:1 with each but will probable change that.

That yellow layer above the unused water is I understand a Mucilage or a Protein...whatever, it is I am assuming that it is that that keeps the regular linseed oil from drying. Oh yes, there is that whole lot about these things that I don’t understand so I will just experiment and hopefully learn something. I know, I know, it is easier to buy a 16 $ 2 ounce jar – to each his own. Oh yes, I plan to try cutting up some lead or lead alloy into little bitty pieces and soak in my 35 % Hydrogen peroxide and let it get well oxidized to add to raw linseed oil. I have a lot of iron oxide and will try that too.

That wooden forearm is...after coating with 20 to 30 thin coats of LinSpeed Oil in the late 50’s, I just today gave it one thin coat of my newly created Clarified Linseed Oil, and it was dry in 15 minutes. Actually it still looked the same.

A week later...I will accept the fact that the traditional oil finish will not chip, crack and peel like the typical varnishes do, that I understand most commercial gun stock finishes are, errespective that they may be advertised as ‘an oil finish’. Except for the epocy

Just some things that I am finding out:
1. My clarified linseed oil doesn’t seem to be very useful.
2. If I mix the clarified oil with some Polyurethane and then add the raw oil until it dries in about say 20 hours it may be useful for me.
3. Bill White in his video says that his LinSpeed Oil is some kind of mixture. The big question is, ‘what kind of’.

Has anyone here used the GB’s LinSpeed oil?
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#130 Post by OLDGUNNER » Tue Dec 18, 2018 11:09 am

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I forgot to attach photo - no biggy....
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#131 Post by OLDGUNNER » Tue Dec 18, 2018 11:35 am

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Do you recognize this? I was there a couple of days after an anniversary and boy the mothers wouldn't let their little kids look at me. I gather that someone here wouldn't let them tear it down so as to be a constant reminder. This was before they built a nice fence around it to keep people from ripping off a piece.
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#132 Post by OLDGUNNER » Tue Dec 18, 2018 11:52 am

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Here is way to make any kind of custom bullet mold - just drill a hole in a piece of aluminum, just easier to work with, and the hole for a nail to push out the cast bullet. One can round the end of a drill bit to whatever shape one may desire.
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#133 Post by OLDGUNNER » Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:45 pm

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For those that do not use the black powder much because of the fouling - a wooden plug - not my idea - just something I saw. By the way, you can believe it or not...but I have found that if I ball-mill my components and then ball-mill the complete black powder, and then ball-mill it some more with just the right ratios of components - not 75-15-10 I can eliminate the black powder fouling right down to something just a little bit more than with smokeless powder. The commercial makers can not/will not go to the trouble to do this. And I use a wood that I never see mentioned in any of the articles - I think this anti-fouling secret is simple to make the charcoal properly and use the proper proportions. I have to tinker with the amount of a given batch of charcoal to help with fouling. I'll find a picture of the wood -it is everywhere.
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Re: SOME THOUGHTS ON ACCURACY & OTHERS

#134 Post by OLDGUNNER » Tue Dec 18, 2018 1:05 pm

Seep Willow – it is not a willow https://outdoorselfreliance.com/mulefat ... licifolia/
It is easy to strip the bark and cut out the knots, makes uniform charcoal, this is what a lot of people don’t bother with. Most will just make sloppy black powder and wonder why it does not work good.
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