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M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

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CRomanos
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M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#1 Post by CRomanos » Tue Jun 05, 2018 8:52 pm

I own this screw up - putting it out there up front.

I was using a heat gun (yeah, bad idea, I know) to get the last of the cosmolene out of an M44 stock and, well, looked away for a minute too long, and this happened:
20180603_225607.jpg
Side View
20180603_225722.jpg
Indentation

It's not deep, but it's unsightly, so what's the best way to address it? Should it be addressed?

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#2 Post by 72 usmc » Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:13 pm

I guess my question is why do you want to refinish and devalue a rifle? Sand it or use a new razor blade and scrape the burn mark down/off and go out beyond the burn to blend in the wood removal so it does not appear as a low spot. You are slowly removing wood with the sharp single edge razor blade in the direction of the grain like a small planer. You must work over a large area to blend in the wood removal so it is not even visible. Then bone the wood. Granted, I never drastically refinish a military stock- most collectors would not even consider such an alter piece unless its almost given away free. Now most shooters would not care.
Here is an old post on Mosin stock cleaning or alteration.

viewtopic.php?f=61&t=375

Be sure to scrape in the direction of the wood grain. I am not sure how deep the burn is? A Second method.
Also try a mixture with equal parts linseed oil and Rottenstone Polishing Compound. Make a paste then rub this paste onto the burned area of the stock. You can use a coarse rag, a great device is a Mr. Clean Magic white Eraser pad , or some fine 0000 grade steel wool. Make sure that you rub in the direction of the stock's wood grain. Do some rubbing then wipe it away with a clean damp cloth. Do this until the burn mark is gone. You will need to do a combination of methods.

Also see https://www.handleking.co.uk/blog/how-t ... den-table/
Last edited by 72 usmc on Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#3 Post by CRomanos » Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:31 pm

I'm not looking to refinish it in the least. There was no finish on the gun except for cosmolene. I didn't remove any shellac or sand the stock.

Just looking to fix my mistake

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#4 Post by 72 usmc » Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:51 pm

I have used this on black water spots on oak flooring but I have no idea if it will work on black burn marks.
Oxalic acid crystals, available in hard crystal in a box at most hardware stores. Mix some crystals with water, use this solution on the stain. Follow the box directions. Let it soak in for 10 minutes, then wipe it off. Go easy and see if it works. Apply more applications/ operations if the stain remains. After the chemical soak, the wood that got wet must be neutralized from this caustic solution. Neutralize the wood by rubbing on/in a solution of 1 teaspoon of baking soda to 1/4 cup of water, do this at least twice, then clean up, with water. This works well on black water spots , BUT I HAVE NEVER TRIED THIS ON A BURN. It might lighten the wood after some is removed with the razor scrape????
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#5 Post by 72 usmc » Tue Jun 05, 2018 11:03 pm

For others, information on Cosmo removal. see old sticky viewtopic.php?f=61&t=1228
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#6 Post by CRomanos » Wed Jun 06, 2018 12:31 am

In fairness, I've had good luck with cosmo removal from several guns, including multiple SKS, an RC K98, other Mosins, etc, this is more of an object lesson in what happens when you get impatient.

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#7 Post by 72 usmc » Wed Jun 06, 2018 9:53 am

To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#8 Post by DaleH » Wed Jun 06, 2018 11:01 am

72 usmc wrote:
Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:51 pm
I have used this on black water spots on oak flooring but I have no idea if it will work on black burn marks.
Oxalic acid crystals, available in hard crystal in a box at most hardware stores. Mix some crystals with water, use this solution on the stain. Follow the box directions. Let it soak in for 10 minutes, then wipe it off. Go easy and see if it works. Apply more applications/ operations if the stain remains. After the chemical soak, the wood that got wet must be neutralized from this caustic solution. Neutralize the wood by rubbing on/in a solution of 1 teaspoon of baking soda to 1/4 cup of water, do this at least twice, then clean up, with water. This works well on black water spots , BUT I HAVE NEVER TRIED THIS ON A BURN. It might lighten the wood after some is removed with the razor scrape????
One could try that household cleaner ‘Bar Keeper’s Friend’, as it is an oxalic acid product. BKF is an EXCELLENT cleaner by the way!

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#9 Post by CRomanos » Wed Jun 06, 2018 3:11 pm

Hadn't thought of using BKF but I'll give it a try, thanks

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#10 Post by Ozzman » Wed Jun 06, 2018 3:29 pm

Post a few "after" photos when you clean it up.
What is the definition of PROCRASTINATION?
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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#11 Post by bobvz » Wed Jun 06, 2018 7:40 pm

You've already gotten the correct method. Nothing will bleach out a burn. Scrape it down over a large area to feather the repair. BTW, I wouldn't use a heat gun again. A common hair dryer or electric space heater produces the right temperature that will not burn.

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#12 Post by CRomanos » Wed Jun 06, 2018 7:44 pm

Question is, once I get rid od the burned area what should the repair be? Glue on a piece of hardwood and shape it?

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#13 Post by 72 usmc » Wed Jun 06, 2018 8:33 pm

Is the burn that deep or just a light mark? When looking at the photo, I thought it appeared like a deep burn, like the wood caught on fire and produced a deep gouge. I figured that it was just my 2003 Mac producing a distorted picture on my old computer. I guess the picture is accurate. Is there really that deep of a burn that will require a splice to the wood section at the wrist where the wood grain is tight & turns upward at the wrist? In other words, the picture I am seeing is not a light surface burn, but a deep charred area??? If that is the case and it's a 1945 Mosin bring back lacking import marks, maybe all matching?- I would hunt for a new stock. Unless you have a donor Mosin stock to cut a section of turning/curving grain from the other rifle's wrist, a patch will look nasty. Something like the Berthier rifles with all the little patches- the French never threw out a stock, they did master repairs like one sees on furniture.

Options :think: :think: Glue in a wood patch with a similar tight grain from another donor mosin stock or use Brownell's Acraglass. Either way will leave a distinct, visible patch on a bare wood surface. The grain change at that area of the stock will look horrible due to such a nice original stock grain at the wrist. You could also try a Devcon 2 ton epoxy mixed with saw dust from the stock, to get correct wood dust you will have to drill holes in the butt area for correct wood dust to make a mixture of epoxy/dust that matches the wood you have, but while it will accept a stain and color out similar to the surrounding wood-- no grain will be visible. Some actually paint on fake grain to furniture repairs. If you can not reasonably thin out the bad spot and match the contour of the wood due to the depth of the damaged spot--, it's best to just get a replacement,1945, Mosin stock if the rifle is a bring back. If it is a miss matched, import marked rifle then I guess a Patch would do. If it was mine, I would get a replacement correct stock. I just can not believe a heat gun burned that deep. I generally wrap a stock in cotton rags and place the stock in the back window of the 62 merc and let the sun & heat from the inside of the car force the cosmo oil out of the stock. I have never used a heat gun, but do use a torch for stripping old lead paint from the house. People think I am nuts stripping a house to bare wood, re sanding, re priming twice, then repainting. But that's another story...

So to repair if it's a light burn you can thin down and match the stock contour so it is not a visible repair, splice a wood patch, splice a wood patch with similar grain cut from another stock, use Brownell's Acraglass to fill in the gouge, or use an epoxy mix of epoxy& wood dust from the same stock as a patch-- all of which will look horrible unless you really restain the stock like Candyman did on the M1 carbine example shown in the lower links. Sorry, I am not much help. I would just get/purchase the best stock I can find in the next year or two as a replacement and restore the rifle back to its original glory. :doh: Costly yes , but the Mosin will be correct and almost original. Most stocks now go $75-125 plus shipping. At a gun show it cost $65 for a 91/30 stock with handguard, cleaning rod, and metal-- the bands and butt plate. You may have to buy a complete dog Mosin to obtain a correct stock :snooty: :doh:. Worthy for a bring back, if that what yours is? I only have three non import marked bring backs. Safe queens that I do not fire.
Here are some ideas:
http://www.longislandfirearms.com/forum ... s-of-pics/

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine- ... c-gunstock

http://m14forum.com/stock/86542-making- ... pairs.html

donor stock patch viewtopic.php?f=61&t=1352

French patch repairs: http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=36261
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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#14 Post by bobvz » Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:10 pm

CRomanos wrote:
Wed Jun 06, 2018 7:44 pm
Question is, once I get rid od the burned area what should the repair be? Glue on a piece of hardwood and shape it?
You'll have to do what I did this week on a L.C Smith fore arm. I had to sand a flat over the repair area and epoxy a patch on. Then re-shape to match contours. Your stock is likely made of arctic birch which the Russians used. Find a broken M44 stock and use the wood as a graft.

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#15 Post by CRomanos » Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:38 pm

bobvz wrote:
Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:10 pm
You'll have to do what I did this week on a L.C Smith fore arm. I had to sand a flat over the repair area and epoxy a patch on. Then re-shape to match contours. Your stock is likely made of arctic birch which the Russians used. Find a broken M44 stock and use the wood as a graft.
I've got a couple of "sporterized" stocks that would work.

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