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1953 Yugo 8mm.

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AMraider
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1953 Yugo 8mm.

#1 Post by AMraider » Sun Jan 28, 2018 1:24 pm

I just opened up this tin that I had purchased back in Feb 2007 for $70. It was a large show at the KCI expo and I had to carry this and a crate Albanian LB 7.62x54r a loooong way to the car. Has anyone had any experiences good or bad with the Factory 12 1953?

jeff
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Last edited by AMraider on Sun Jan 28, 2018 8:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 1953 Yugo 8mm.

#2 Post by ghostdevilguy » Sun Jan 28, 2018 7:25 pm

I have some of that, I don't remember if it's the same year or not, but it either works or it takes 2-3 hits with the firing pin, the rifle I was shooting at the time was a 1943 turk mauser. I think some of the primers are a little deeper than others, I have not tried it in my other mausers yet.

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Re: 1953 Yugo 8mm.

#3 Post by Polock » Sun Jan 28, 2018 7:40 pm

What mr. ghost devil said--primers seem to be seated a bit deeper than most ammo we see. If u have a lot, try a increased firing pin spring--friend gave me one (Wolff 24# IIRC) that did the trick for an unusually accurate Yugo Mauser. Heavy bullet (198 gr) so there is a bit of recoil--pretty accurate stuff.
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Re: 1953 Yugo 8mm.

#4 Post by AMraider » Sun Jan 28, 2018 8:35 pm

Thanks for the replies. It looks like clean stuff so I will give it a try. Safely of course.

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Re: 1953 Yugo 8mm.

#5 Post by 72 usmc » Sun Jan 28, 2018 10:57 pm

Thanks for the replies. It looks like clean stuff so I will give it a try. Safely of course.
Shoots fine, but hard primers and some that are just dead. In a mauser bolt action depending on your firing pin spring you might have to up the spring --Wolff Springs has new stronger springs. Turks are bad for weak springs, a new RC should fire it OK. Light hits to the primer mean get a better/stronger firing pin spring to fire the Yugo ammo.

Now some of the cases will have/experience burn cracks/splits due to old brass so wear safety glasses. Most splits occur at the top where the bullet sits. However, a few may crack at the rear and cause gas to come back. This is like 1 out of a box. It just depends on the brass- all lots are different. But deep seated hard primers are always a factor on this old 1950s stuff. No problem with the later 1970s-80 Yugo 8mm. I remember that stuff was $1.25 a box when we got pallets of it. All of the old SRF posts & photos were lost so here are some links to split brass issues:
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread. ... e-8mm-Good
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/show ... ?t=1290307
pics intact see http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread. ... st-em-here

Prior to shooting check the cartridge for hair line visible cracks at the shoulder and where the bullet is set. On some batches you can see cracks and may be able to actually pull the bullet out of the case. Do not fire these cartridges where splits are visible. Most have no visible splits, burn splits occur say about 2-5 per box after they are fired and all batch lots are different. A few at the neck or rim is ok. :arrow: :snooty: NOW<If you have a bad lot you will see rim/rear case splits or splits down the entire side. :violin: :violin: Then its up to you to pull the bullet for reloading to be on the safe side, or fire the stuff and live on the edge. Do you need your eyes? One serious side split out of 2 boxes is fair, but if you get any more major burn cracks at the base or the entire side the case, or worse, case head separation then you may have the weak/brittle brass lot. That is the garbage I pull and use the powder and bullet for reloading new brass. I value my eye sight. So you fire it and see, be sure its in a vented old bolt action mauser, no semi auto or machine gun.
You get the idea, most old posts now suffer from the photobucket pic loss due to its switch to pay to post. So its difficult to post/find new pictures.
Shoot it, but wear impact resistant safety glasses. Did I say WEAR SAFETY GLASSES

:arrow: :oops: :oops: And it is a real pain :lol: when the extractor tears off the rear of the case and the body of the yugo cartridge is still stuck in the chamber. :roll: :(
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: 1953 Yugo 8mm.

#6 Post by 72 usmc » Mon Feb 05, 2018 1:08 pm

Fire some and please post any splits you get, not much photographic info left after the photo bucket grab for cash killed all the old posts with missing photos.
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: 1953 Yugo 8mm.

#7 Post by AMraider » Mon Feb 05, 2018 10:13 pm

I ended up selling it locally. With safety precautions of course.

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Re: 1953 Yugo 8mm.

#8 Post by rob » Tue Feb 06, 2018 8:59 am

I have shot a lot of the 50s Yugo out of my K98 and my 24/47 and it all fired on the first strike and have not had any split cases

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Re: 1953 Yugo 8mm.

#9 Post by allisd17man » Tue Feb 06, 2018 9:29 pm

I have shot a good bit of '53-'55 Yugo through my K98s. The occasional round required a second primer strike, but never any split cases. I really like the strippers, they are so much better than the 1-piece Turk ones.

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Re: 1953 Yugo 8mm.

#10 Post by Petros600 » Wed Feb 14, 2018 6:47 pm

Wolf #24 spring did the trick for me

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