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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 8:28 am 
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I have a garand that I take to a HPA Garand shoot locally. I have had this one a really long time, but it never fails that this one guy always looks at it and asks me if I am selling the op rod. Why would I just sell the rod? He told me that he was trying to make a "all correct gun", but when he shows me his op rod on his rifle its different. Mine is different from everyone's there, but when I ask why he didnt seem to know (maybe pulling my leg).
Without sounding like an idiot, I know my op rod is uncut (for that grenade launching break point I take it), but the part that connects to my bolt that looks kind of like a tombstone...well thats where mine looks different. Its shaped different.
Other things I know...they had a muzzle guage and some kind of bore gauge there...they tell me it was 1 on muzzle, 1 on the throat...pretty good I guess.


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Last edited by Remus1956 on Thu May 31, 2012 9:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 8:29 am 
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Markings on the rod...


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 8:37 am 
I'd like to hear an answer on this, too.


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 10:17 am 
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What you have is an early pattern rod, with the additional relief cut on the outside...Later versions were not cut this way, just early SA and WRA rods. They deleted this contour to save time and increase the strength of the rod.....

Tell them $500.00 and new rod... :D

Dale

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 10:39 am 
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dale has it right. a note if the guy wants it that bad but can't or will not tell you why stay away from him. you really want to have some fun buy another op rod swap it in. the next shoot when he asks tell him you sold it or traded it for the one you have now.


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 11:56 am 
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Actually I think Dale is on to something. There are folks out there who will shell-out beaucoup bucks for Winchester parts, especially for the rarer ones like the op rod you have. If your Garand is a typical mixmaster then I'd seriously consider putting the op-rod up for sale on Ebay. Set a reserve price of $600 or $700 and see what happens. If it doesn't sell, you'll just be out a few bucks for a listing fee and you'll definitely get bids so you'll know its worth. If it sells, you can easily get a new op-rod for around $125. Heck, I'd probably get another op-rod anyway. The one you have is worth some $$ and every time you shoot your Garand you risk breaking it (a small risk, I know, but still a risk).

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 1:04 pm 
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Your Op Rod would sell in the $350-$450 range depending on how bad someone wanted it.
Would like to hear more about your rifle. Is it a WRA? Looks to have some early parts

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 2:03 pm 
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Interesting Garand. What's the story behind it? I see the receiver was lead dipped, so a WWII one? It does have a WRA stock and lock bar sights, which are very desirable. The stamped trigger guard is probably "incorrect" though if that's the kind of thing you cared about.


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 2:07 pm 
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vonmazur wrote:
What you have is an early pattern rod, with the additional relief cut on the outside...Later versions were not cut this way, just early SA and WRA rods. They deleted this contour to save time and increase the strength of the rod.....

Tell them $500.00 and new rod... :D

Dale



It also lacks the post war modification of the stress relief "cut" at the corner. Making it an "uncut" op rod, which is the term for them. Which also tends to make it a bit more valuable.
Post war manufactured op rods had a bigger cut (5/16") done at the factory. War time op rods were modified post war with a smaller cut (3/16" If I recall correctly). The cut was to reduce stress fractures at the square corner.
You don't list what your serial number is, but from the lead dipped heal it is more than likely under 2.4 million. If you wanted to get a more "correct" op rod, the odds are that you should have a -6 SA op rod, with a curved side. Those were used from serial number 940,000 to 2, 250,000. With careful search you could find one with a post war cut done to make it a bit safter to shoot. But, there is a difference of opinion as to whether or not the cut is needed. You will have a fairly easy time finding one, since many were made. But if you don't care how "original" your Garand is, any op rod will work. You can also check eBay and gunbroker.com.
It appears that the elevation knob is a Wincheter knob, and that also may be worth some mony. If that is an original Winchester stock, that may be worth some big bucks. Several hundred dollars.
You might want to go through the small parts and look for small parts that may have a punch mark. Those will be Winchester made parts, and they often command a premium.

But then, if I had that many Winchester parts, I would give serious consideration to buying a Winchester Garand through the CMP and swapping parts to make it as original as I could.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:26 am 
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Thanks for the responses! I ordered a spare op rod to switch mine off :o . The rifle is a Springfield garand mixmaster from the CMP, but back when they were around $400 for the service grade. Ill post a few more pics of the parts later on. The serial number range puts it in WW2 based on this response from the springfield museum I got yesterday...
Dear David:

This letter is in reference to your US M1 Rifle, serial number 14497**. The
weapon was manufactured here in March 1943. As for where your weapon went
after leaving the Armory, my comprehensive database doesn’t mention your
rifle. Records of where the weapons went after manufacture rarely survive,
being mostly temporary accounting records. With than serial number, I feel
it’s a good bet that it was issued during the war. Not being appraisers, we
do not attempt to estimate collector values.

To find out more on M1 Rifles, with the serial number, please go to the
Park’s WEBsite www.nps.gov/spar and, under “QUICKLINKS” CLICK ‘Springfield
Armory History & Weapons questions’. Then, at the bottom third of the new
page, CLICK on “Springfield Armory [firearms, etc.] research questions’.
Then look for the US M1 Rifle on that page and CLICK for the serial number
listing.

It goes on to tell me that the last two digits on my barrel should end in "43" which they do, and was told to look for parts with an "SA" stamp on it. My trigger housing, barrel, and bolt have these "SA" marks, but have numbers that dont match each either. They kind of have numbers like the ones on the op rod, but not the same as another part.
As far as I can tell about the stock...its what came on the rifle. It doesnt have any varnish on it, but did have a yellow tag on it when I got it...just cant seem to find that anywhere.
It also has a plug under the rear sight that is shaped like a large flat screwdriver would fit. That same guy that wants my op rod gave me another one that has a 4 sided slot and I replaced it. Ill take some pics of that part too.
Sailormilan2 wrote:
It appears that the elevation knob is a Wincheter knob, and that also may be worth some mony. If that is an original Winchester stock, that may be worth some big bucks. Several hundred dollars.
You might want to go through the small parts and look for small parts that may have a punch mark. Those will be Winchester made parts, and they often command a premium.

What does that look like?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:29 am 
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Ken792 wrote:
You don't list what your serial number is, but from the lead dipped heal it is more than likely under 2.4 million.


Is that what that was??!!?? I thought my finish was messed up. It definitely looks darker there on the back. Cool...


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:56 am 
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Nice rifle with some collectable parts

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:01 pm 
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Remus1956 wrote:
Ken792 wrote:
You don't list what your serial number is, but from the lead dipped heal it is more than likely under 2.4 million.


Is that what that was??!!?? I thought my finish was messed up. It definitely looks darker there on the back. Cool...


It could very well be the original finish. I believe if it were refinished during rebuild, it would no longer be visible.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:45 pm 
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Ken792 wrote:
Remus1956 wrote:
Ken792 wrote:
You don't list what your serial number is, but from the lead dipped heal it is more than likely under 2.4 million.


Is that what that was??!!?? I thought my finish was messed up. It definitely looks darker there on the back. Cool...


It could very well be the original finish. I believe if it were refinished during rebuild, it would no longer be visible.


Annealed heels are visable even if refinished.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:54 pm 
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Guys: The tips of the receiver legs were also annealed in the lead dip...This was to prevent the breakage of the slots for the T/G...

(Homonyms, Synonyms, you guys are driving me nuts!! HEEL, HEAL?? I though I was at a tent revival with the Rev Ainsley.. :D :D :D )

Dale

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