Once upon a time I started to write one of my How to articles for the main site, on doing a screw build

Then I retired from the Navy, Started a new Job, Moved, spent months unpacking, ect.

Needless to say I never got it done. It was a going to be a real Jimdandy with tons of photos and all that happy crap.

So here it is in text only. It will get you all the way through except installing the trigger group and furniture.

Well, the trigger group install info is all over the web.

And if you really need help installing the buttstock............Hmmmmmm. Who loads your mags for ya?


Have fun, feel free to ask questions.

Post all questions pertaining to these instructions in this thread

DO not repeat questions!

All will be answered as best as I can. I could even supply some photos if needed for most steps.

Once again Have fun.

Burner....





Assembling an AK kit using Screws.

Disclaimer: Due to the many differing factors that can happen with building a firearm the Author of this article and the owner of this website, Surplusrifle.com, claim no responsibilities for your actions should you decide to assembled a rifle parts kit using this method. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK




So you got an AK type parts kit and want to make it into a shootable rifle. There are many different ways to do this from Rivets, welding and screws. We will be using screws this time.

Parts used.
10 each 10-32 x1/2” button head screws.
5 each 8-32x1/4” button head screws.
4 each 10-32 nuts.
5 each 8-32 nuts.
1 Tube Red Loctite

US made compliance parts used.
1 US made receiver.
1 US made hammer.
1 US made Trigger.
1 US made Disconnector.
1 US made Follower.
1 US made Floor plate.

First you will want to remove all the wood and or plastic furniture and clean up all the parts.

Next remove the left over receiver stubs by grinding off the rivet heads and gently prying off the old sheet metal. Don’t toss out the old parts yet. We will need them later.

The front trunion (That is the one with the barrel sticking out of it) has six (6) rivets to remove. Three (3) on each side.
Once the old receiver is removed grind the remaining rivets flush. The two lower rivets may be punched through with a hammer and a drift. The upper 4 will require drilling.

NOTICE
Drilling in to the barrels chamber can render the barrel unsafe and useless.
Do not drill too deep.

Look at your front trunion and determine just how deep you can drill. I used a visual measurement and marked the max depth with riggers tape. Drill down to the tape and no further. While drilling ensure that the tape does not float up the drill bit.
This is done using a #21 drill bit.


The rear block has two (2) through rivets.
Now to remove the rivets from the rear block you can drill them most of the way through with an undersized drill bit them punch them out with a hammer and a drift. Sometimes that can be very difficult to remove and will require some effort. Other times they will tap right out.


Your receiver may have come with all the trunion mounting holes pre drilled or it may have none of the trunion holes drilled.

If it is fully pre drilled slide the trunions into place and check for hole alignment. If a hole is slightly off it may be filed to fit.
If no holes are present you must determine where to drill the holes.
I have done this by making a drilling template.

This is done using the same heavy tape on the old receiver stubs.
Marking all the edges and needed holes, then transferring the tape carefully to the new receiver.

Once you are certain that the holes are in the proper place you may drill the receiver right through the tape.

This process is done for both sides of the front trunion.

On the rear this may be done on one side. By drilling one side, then set the rear block into place then drilling right through to ensure proper alignment.



Now is the time to tap the holes. Using a 10-32 starting tap and a tap handle and plenty of cutting fluid. Carefully tap the rear block in from both sides.

When tapping turn the tap in ¼ turn then back it out to break the chip. Do this turn and reverse process the entire time to prevent the tap from sticking and breaking.
Don’t forget to use plenty of cutting fluid through out the whole tapping process.

On the front trunion you use the same tap and run straight through the two lower holes.

On the 4 upper holes you must start the threads with the starting tap and then shift to a bottoming tap, to thread all the way to the bottom of the hole.
Installing the rear block.

Slide the rear block into place, The receiver should be flush to the sides of the block with no bowing outwards. File the block and or the receiver as needed to insure a good fit.

The rear block may be installed using the intact un-shortened 10-32x1/2” screw. Apply a drop of the Red LocTite to the threads and screw it in snugly.


Installing the front trunion/barrel assembly.

Slide the front trunion into the receiver it also may need some slight filing to the front of the receiver to fit properly.

The screws will need to be shortened.
This is done with your grinder. Put a nut on the screw and run it down until the needed length is on the out side of the screw. Grind the screw down and slightly into the nut.
Now remove the nut. You have just shortened the screw and cleaned up the threads at the same time.
Again apply a drop of the red Loctite to the threads and snugly screw them in.



Installing the trigger guard.

The trigger guard is installed using the 8-32 screws and nuts. The out side of these nuts will have to be ground or filed under sized to fit within the receiver.
The Selector stop is placed against the receiver with the tab on the right side of the receiver pointing up. The trigger guard is now installed using the 8-32 screws and nuts. Use Lock Tite on all 5 screws. The 4 screws in the front will need shortening. This may be done before or after installation. I have found it to be easier after installing.

_________________
This is so easy, If my dog had thumbs, He could do it!

U.S.N. Retired 1985-2005

printed it out just in case i ever decide to do one.thanks burner. i hope they are still available next year. kaz

Burner, this is great. When you sent this to me last week, I read it straight through. Perfectly clear, a complete list of supplies and tips to help avoid headaches. Fantastic.

I think this one should be sticky.

_________________
"No good decision was ever made in a swivel chair." - George S. Patton

It is.

_________________
This is so easy, If my dog had thumbs, He could do it!

U.S.N. Retired 1985-2005

Ok, this may be getting a little too technical; but - has anyone used stainless steel screws, or do you use the black ones? I went to one hardware store and they only had 8 black ones (need 10). Went to another and all they had were a bunch of stainless steel ones, no black ones (oh brother).

I bought the stainless steel ones. I think that stainless steel would be stronger but not sure if they'll paint up (or duracoat) well.

Stainless will work.

Just scuff them up good before painting.

_________________
This is so easy, If my dog had thumbs, He could do it!

U.S.N. Retired 1985-2005

Thanks!

Or I could always gold plate them!

Good info i am buying a kit from a guy who already threaded the trunnion for the screws so when i get it all i have to do is put in all the screws....

_________________
Mil-Surp Collector
Registered: 4/19/05
Posts: 1,482+

Burner (or anyone else),
I've bought the screws for my screw build (BTW - still waiting for nodakspud.com to get more economy receivers available); anyhow, I was wondering where to get, or what other people use for, a cross member bushing and center support rivet / long screw?

Do you pick these up at the hardware store too or order them online?

Black Wolf,
If you are getting a 100% DCI receiver from nodakspud, it is already installed and you dont have to worry about it.
If not many buy them on line. But I don't think it would be too hard to make one up with hardwear store parts.

_________________
This is so easy, If my dog had thumbs, He could do it!

U.S.N. Retired 1985-2005

Cool, thanks my friend. Just got done stripping the furniture down on the kit tonight - used Bix Stripper. Looks pretty bare & light now. The nodakspud.com receivers are in stock now (there were out of stock for a while) and I'll order one on Tuesday.

Looks like the only thing I got left to do is tap the holes and put'r together.

I got some local friends here who've put together several (15 or so) from flats (got all the tools at their home), I'm gonna' hook up with them and bend some flats - they've stated their more than happy to help me. I'll post some pics of my present work-of-art when I'm done. (Wife is getting really p*ss*d lately cause I've been in the basement so much).

I wish this sticky had been made sooner
Which screws are used for the center support?

If you are using a 100% receiver the center support comes pre installed.

If you are bending your own that is up to you.

Then you can use the proper rivet or what ever else you could think of.

_________________
This is so easy, If my dog had thumbs, He could do it!

U.S.N. Retired 1985-2005

What should i use for tap fluid? some kind of oil?

_________________
~THE RUSSIAN

"If you cant Hit it with an AK, you cant Kill it with an AR

Just use regular tapping fluid.

_________________
Mark
USN Retired 1981 - 2005
Proud Air Force dad!
"There's no such thing as too many Enfields!"