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43 Mauser

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SWIHARTMARK
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43 Mauser

#1 Post by SWIHARTMARK » Wed Feb 14, 2018 7:24 pm

Okay, anybody out there make their own 43 Mauser brass or do you all buy pre-made stuff? I was wondering about using some 45-90 or 45-100 stuff, or .458 Winchester Mag. The .458 Win Mag requires some machining though. I have some Jamison stuff, but I think it wasn't annealed right. Right now it isn't chambering it is so bad. I checked spec, but it looks like it is in the ball part with only the shoulder being about .020-.030 too far forward, but I have more than that to go in order to chamber.

I've checked other sites and some YouTube videos, but none looking exceptionally promising. .300 Win Mag looks like a waste of time, but it has a video on how to. The .458 Winchester has a good video, but there is machining involved. The specs on 45-90 Sharps and another case in 45-100 look to be okay for just an anneal and then form and trim job. Actually, trimming might not be necessary as 43 Mauser is 2.37 long and they are 2.40 long.

Any stories on this would be appreciated. I haven't read or saw much on using 45-90 or 45-100, but it looks very feasible.

Best Regards,

Mark

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Re: 43 Mauser

#2 Post by professrh » Thu Feb 15, 2018 8:07 am

Isn't the 43 Mauser chambered in 8x57? What am I missing?

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Re: 43 Mauser

#3 Post by slowbob2 » Thu Feb 15, 2018 8:54 am

45/90 works fine once it has been fireformed . 45/70 will also work but you have real short necks . Are you shooting a M-71 or a 71/84 , as they take different ammo .

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Re: 43 Mauser

#4 Post by SWIHARTMARK » Thu Feb 15, 2018 5:47 pm

Oh, I have a 71/84. I thought they were the same. I can shoot single shot if needed, but I'm in the process of getting a part out of an old broken receiver to make another one have its magazine work once again. I read that the 45/70 is pretty short. I did find that 45/90 and 45/100 are around the same size of 43 Mauser. Most people just get Jamison brass and be done with it, but I can anneal my own brass and run them through any die. I have successfully done this with 24GA shotgun brass for .577/450 Martini-Henry and the Mauser neck isn't half as bad to neck down. My 12 Jamison cases look to be badly annealed (perhaps not annealed) and won't chamber.

The only thing I'm worried about is the thinness of the rim in everything except the original. My Jamison cases are actually .010 thin at around .080. The 45 cal stuff is around .070 thick. I think it should work, but I think I read where the magazine might not function properly.

Oh, you used 45-90 Sharps, correct? I think annealing it and then running it through dies should do most of the work of fire foming. I'd like to avoid fire forming if possible.

Thanks for the help.

I shall deal with professorh in good time, boo, ha, ha, ha. Remember professorh, 85% of the Yakusa are Koreans and I speak their language. Too busy to deal with you now since I'm watching the Olympics and listening to them mispronounce Pyeongchang on an hourly basis. My ears hurt now. 43 Mauser, I'm dealing with middle school kids here.

Best Regards,

Mark

BTW, I do have a 1942 RC 98K by Steyr. Missed it by one year I guess.

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Re: 43 Mauser

#5 Post by slowbob2 » Thu Feb 15, 2018 6:31 pm

I am helping a friend with his and he is using 50 of the 45/90 . They are all working fine . By fire forming I mean once they are fired , we are sizing to head space on the shoulder , not the rim . That solved any light primer hits . Also we are waiting for some soft jacketed .446 dia 350 and 400 grain bullets from Hawk bullets . We have his 84 down to 3.5 inch 5-shot groups at 100 yards , with a group ruined now and then by a [ not to bad] flyer . I have found that the faster you shoot them [ within reason ] the better they group . But the cast bullets start to have problems at over 1300 fps [ no gas checks ] , paper patching lets us go up to 1450 and the much better groups . We will see if the jackets will help .

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Re: 43 Mauser

#6 Post by SWIHARTMARK » Thu Feb 15, 2018 8:53 pm

Good to hear. I have the Lyman .446 mold, so I will be using my own cast bullets down the road. Probably with a 5% mix of tin to help fill out the mold. I will try to anneal my brass and then run them through a full length resizing die first.

Do you use black powder? I don't use substitute in anything originally intended for BP. Hey, I like my own cloud when I shoot. I was wondering how much to use.

I'll try to order some cases in 45/90 or 45/100 depending on price and availability.

I really like the looks of the 71/84. Mine is a mix bag of parts, but the bore is still good and metal isn't bad. I stripped the stock down and the wood is mostly white, like pine, even with a coat of boil linseed oil. What is that stuff? Out to look for a stain this weekend. What I nice rifle.

Thanks for the help.

Best Regards,

Mark

I'll try to learn to paper patch down the road. I have a paper patch mold for 557/450 so the skill should come in handy.

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Re: 43 Mauser

#7 Post by slowbob2 » Thu Feb 15, 2018 9:13 pm

We are using smokeless . Pressure is pressure , it does not matter how you make it , just as long as you make it right . The 84's are stronger than you think . The Germans did modify some to fire 8x57mm with no problems .

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Re: 43 Mauser

#8 Post by slowbob2 » Thu Feb 15, 2018 9:15 pm

Also , with black I just fill the case with 2F , no air space . A double wrap of Teflon tape is a quick , easy paper patch . Get it around the base a little .

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Re: 43 Mauser

#9 Post by SWIHARTMARK » Fri Feb 16, 2018 5:21 am

I'll take your advise on the FFg. I don't think you can overload with BP. Doesn't the teflon melt when fired, or does it get blown out the muzzle? Man, I've never read about this before, very interesting.

Best Regards,

Mark

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Re: 43 Mauser

#10 Post by slowbob2 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 9:11 am

At the higher velocities we were trying for the Teflon tape cut the group with the cast bullets from 10 inches [ with a bad flyer way out of the 10" group ] to the 3.5 groups . Since he bought the cast bullets , I do not know if these flyers he keeps getting are just a bad bullet ???? I am not sure what happens to the tape , I think it is staying on the bullet at least until it is out of the barrel . He said he is not seeing it when he cleans the bore and that it does help keep fowling down .

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Re: 43 Mauser

#11 Post by SWIHARTMARK » Fri Feb 16, 2018 7:50 pm

I do have the traditional thin paper for patching. I should give that a try. Right now I'd be happy to get her up and running again.

Good news today, after milling into a beat up 71/84 receiver that was warped due to the use of a pipe wrench to attempt a barrel removal (NOT ME), I got the part I needed to make the loading gate finally work on mine whole 71/84. Looks like I got a shot at getting the magazine to work once again. Sadly, the donor receiver was absolutely totaled, but it was likely well gone before I got to it. Things are looking up.

Best Regards,

Mark

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Re: 43 Mauser

#12 Post by VMASCIOP2000 » Sat Feb 17, 2018 4:25 pm

professrh wrote:
Thu Feb 15, 2018 8:07 am
Isn't the 43 Mauser chambered in 8x57? What am I missing?
An important question if your in the market for a 43 Mauser. Did your question get an answer?
I was R.L.E.V.M. on our old forum.

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Re: 43 Mauser

#13 Post by SWIHARTMARK » Sat Feb 17, 2018 6:34 pm

Nope.... That's for the For Sale section I believe, not the reloading section. "43 Mauser" is the common term for the old German Mauser round as it's 43 caliber or 11.15mm. It is printed on my Lee Precision die set as well as listed in "The Handloader's Manual Of Cartridge Conversions" by J. Donnelly. I think the professor was being facetious.

Just stripped off a coat of boiled linseed oil on the stock. Hope for a dark red brown stain later.

Best Regards,

Mark

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Re: 43 Mauser

#14 Post by professrh » Sun Feb 18, 2018 6:15 pm

Actually just ignorant. But thanks, Mark, for the lifeline. And the glimpse into a new world of Mausers to explore. . . .

Curious what you used to strip the stock. And are you keeping a photo log of the project? (I've been moving toward fixer-upper sporters lately, and always appreciate seeing what real, experienced gunworkers do in their restoration projects. . . .)

--Prof

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Re: 43 Mauser

#15 Post by SWIHARTMARK » Sun Feb 18, 2018 11:36 pm

I didn't want to use KleanX StripX indoors due to ventilation, so I used 80 grit sandpaper on what was a stained finish. I sanded fairly lightly and then I steam it with an iron and wet rag. I put on some boiled linseed oil which came out far too light for me to like, so I steamed off the boiled linseed oil. I then used MinWax pre-Stain Conditioner and then put on a polyurethane stain by Minwax in natural cherry. So far, two coasts and the pre-stain seemed like a good investment and I got the tip from a guy at work who has his own wood shop on the side, which includes a $7000 CNC wood cutting laser. Candyman gave me the tip on KleanX StripX chemical stripper. I did use some indoors, but I wouldn't make a habit of it. I tried to get some stain off without a full sand in some places and it worked a little. I'd almost use the pre-stain instead just for kicks since it seemed like a thinner of sorts.

I do have a picture of the Mauser before I started. I hope to put on several more coats of Cherry stain and get some fine red/brown color into the stock. I'll also cold blue the rifle bands and bull stock end piece. The rifle and trigger guard bluing is still pretty good, so I will leave it as is. I will take a picture of it once it is gone, which won't be long.

After this, I have issues with rounds chambering. I suspect a poor annealing on some brass by Jamison. The Lee Precision dies check out to spec according to some high end intra-micrometers, in fact, well undersize. I also suspect the RCBS shell holder to be a bit off, but I hear the Lee ones crack after less than a dozer tries. I'm going to order some 45-90 Sharps cases and form the necks after I anneal them. They should fit rather easily. Form firing will complete the job.

I have a Snider-Enfield, Martini-Henry MK IV, Trapdoor Springfield, Italian 10.4mm Vetterli, Dutch Beaumont Vitali, and the 17/84 Mauser. I did redo the wood and metal on the Italian Vetterli. I also did the same for one in 6.5mm, which turned out nicely, since somebody at Freezing Your Heine shoot said, "That's the best Vetterli I've ever seen." Lucky for me, I had a person to person chat with Candyman at a shoot up here in Ohio and learned as much as I could with my brief time with him.

As for saving money, not really. Most bubba's replacement parts cast more than the gun at times. Go for a mismatched shooter that is still fairly intact. Little value is lost in something not very collectable, so refinish it as you please. I want a nice red/brown stained stock to make the re-blued barrel bands and polished bolt stand out. The blah mid brown just didn't do it for me. Since it was obviously not the original finish, who cares?

Do try chemical stripping per directions, then some steaming and sanding with 80, 120, and 220 grit sand paper, some Scotch-brite and then 0000 steel wool. Beech stocks love boiled linseed oil and turn a nice red/brown, well most wood likes boiled linseed oil and the grain really stands out more. I tried mineral spirits, but it takes a long time to take off a finish that way. Go for the full chemical effect, but out doors if at all possible for ventilation. The steam and sand gives you a fantastically smooth finish and you just love holding your gun once you do it. Feels real good to me anyways.

I have more fun re-finishing my collection of mostly beat up shooters than shooting at times. My bores are all good, but the wood and metal often need work and I'm eager to do it myself. Good luck to your future endeavors. I'd try a Springfield trapdoor since 45/70 isn't hard to find cases for, nor dies. Take Care.

Best Regards,

Mark

BTW, steaming can get some dents out of wood as well. Working with Beech is my favorite.

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