Well, the board is either fixed, or it's going to run terribly. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. I'm at my technical limit right now.

BULLET COATING

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OLDGUNNER
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BULLET COATING

#1 Post by OLDGUNNER » Fri Jun 01, 2018 11:17 am

Hi – Just this morning I thought that I may experiment with some bullet coating. I know that there are 101 products on the market for this and most of the popular epoxy type coatings are of those of the two-part type. Such as the Hi-Tek at 36 $ for a little over a pint. Epoxy is as I understand things is a synthetic resin compound. Synthetic being different from natural resin such as pine sap, from which rosin is made . I have an unlimited supply of pine resin in my back yard and I have made the rosin – It can be some tough stuff...it is simple to make and has many uses. Baseball pitchers use it their rosin bags...Violin players use it to rosin up their bows and you have probable used it when you may have ‘varnished’ some wood or used the ‘True Oil’ on a gun stock. Most of the gun stock finishes are of a varnish base even though they may lie and say otherwise.

Polyurethane is not an epoxy but close enough for me to use as a ‘one-part’ coating. After my polyurethane coating dries, I will think that I will be hard pressed to see much difference. BUT...BUT, I have not seen either one as a coating on lead or lead alloy. I have not had neither in my hot little hands. I will hope to see things without all of the hassle of over paying and shipping of the popular epoxy coatings used for bullet coatings. A while back I saw in a local hardware store a one gallon kit for 18.95 which included a little two ounce bottle of the hardener. Boat builders use it with their fiber glass covering of boats and other things.
And here is another thing...How does one have the drying of the bullets on a screen without disturbing the painted finish?

And along this same line, I will assume that typically most gun related products such as used for cleaning, etc., are repackaged ordinary items with a little dab of this and a tad of that added and the selling price increased accordingly, and usually much more. For example I have read that the HOPPE’S # 9 is basically kerosene and alcohol with a tad of other ‘stuff’ with a bit of banana oil for a nicer smell. Stoddard Solvent is a common ingredient in gun cleaning liquids. In 1956 when I worked for Douglas Aircraft they were paying 2 cent a gallon for Stoddard Solvent about the same time as the guys in San Diego came out with their WD-40 which was/is basically Stoddard Solvent. And Douglas was paying about 4 cents a gallon for J-P4 with gasoline about 18 cents on the street. Here is something that some my not realize that in 1964-66 JP-4 was about 6 cents a gallon and the F-104 fighter aircraft without external stores and with its big fuel guzzling J-79 engine at its most economical speed, would get about 8 miles per gallon...about the same mileage a four hole Buick would get. And the SR-71 engines were designed to burn coal instead of jet fuel.

I think that the thinning of this polyurethane with paint thinner is for one to have a thinner coating and then, that is where the dye comes in...to better see the covering as it goes along. And another big advantage will be that the polyurethane has a natural innate hardener and I will dispense with the oven baking part, and not having to watch for the hardening to start as I cover the bullets in the plastic bowl.

And I just found this YOUTUBE that shows this for a clear explanation.https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=po ... &FORM=VIRE
And I find no reason to not believe this.

I will take a photo of my finished bullets and we may both see something....
********************************************************************
This evening - -
Okay an update on my Win Max Polyurethane coating – it had ‘AGE-HARDENED’ in the can, but I found some stuff that may be Polyurethane in a spray can. It hasn’t hardened on the bullets like cheap Lacquer in a spray can. It says dry in 3 or 4 hours. It is called an Appliance Epoxy Paint. I can’t see how it can be Epoxy – I am sure that they are lying. A while back I had bought a can of Rustolium Appliance Epoxy Paint and wrote them if they really thought if it was Epoxy and they never replied. If you or your kids or grand kids have any of the so-called ‘Craft-Coat’ in a ‘two-part’ set, this should be a two-part epoxy, as far as I know. And also a while back I painted some cast bullets with some plain so-called enamel in a spray can...they both seem to be durable and hard enough – this and the Appliance Epoxy Paint I haven’t gotten around to making a Water Bullet Trap so I can’t really tell much. As I have said above that I haven’t tried any of the Epoxy or the Polyurethane, but I may have tried the polyurethane without knowing. Has anyone here tried the Two-Part epoxy paint coating for the bullets and if so how is it working? I’ll buy a new can of polyurethane the next time I go to town.

To be continued....

The next morning...the what I think is polyurethane is dry and ‘looks’ good, but I realize that all polyurethanes aren’t created equal, so therefore my experience with it is very limited. But the bottom line is, my bottom line, since I feel very comfortable with my pan lube and cookie cutter method of lubeing cast bullets, and it is very simple, I will stick with this for now. I will probable just forgo any further testing in the coating of these. The old saying, ‘Don’t knock it until you try it’, is still valid of course I believe. Now if I were into any kind of competition shooting, I would keep testing.

Since I haven’t figured out how to attach more than one photo per posting, I will just let this be it for now on this.
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OLDGUNNER
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Re: BULLET COATING

#2 Post by OLDGUNNER » Fri Jun 01, 2018 1:31 pm

DSC_0065.JPG
Just to give one an example of what I was talking about, here is one, that is just about twice of that in a hardware store, depends on the store of course, but is about 1/8th the cost of the Hi-Tek kits. The Hi-Tek is color of choice – big deal...powder Rit Dye is 2 something. So if one can find the epoxy at 1/2 this, then it would be about 1/16th the cost of the Hi-Tek stuff. Just 32 ounces of this should cover one heck of lot of bullets. But...’You pays your money, you takes your choice’. https://www.ebay.com/i/262993487143?ul_noapp=true And one doesn’t have to use Acetone, Paint Thinner should work just as good.

These are the ones that I just painted last night with what I think might be a polyurethane paint.
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Re: BULLET COATING

#3 Post by OLDGUNNER » Sat Jun 09, 2018 8:14 pm

Okay, FWTW - I just tried coating some cast bullets with MINWAX Fast Dry Polyurethane 50/50 with thinner and some Rit Dye. For me the Rit Dye did ‘not’ mix with the Poly and thinner. I can’t find out what kind of dye it is, but it did not mix for me. But it is fast drying. The relative humidity is in the 20’s and it is pretty much on its way to drying in two hours. Rather than finding a dye that will mix with the Minwax, I will probable just try a colored Polyurethane. The white bullets are with what I ‘think’ might be Polyurethane but I don’t know for sure...and I see no reason why they should not work. And I have yet to try adding some of the refined natural resin from the local pine trees.
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Re: BULLET COATING

#4 Post by capt14k » Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:09 pm

What is the reason for coating the bullets? Does it save on bore life? Increase accuracy?

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Re: BULLET COATING

#5 Post by Smokey » Sun Jun 10, 2018 8:44 am

I've read a few articles and threads on "powder coated" bullets which involve a somewhat tough polymer.
Apparently they work pretty well if handled properly. The loads are accurate and prevent leading in the barrel.
I haven't seen a need to try it myself, but may purchase some coated bullets someday to experiment with.
Arguing with someone who denounces reason is like administering medicine to a corpse.

OLDGUNNER
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Re: BULLET COATING

#6 Post by OLDGUNNER » Sun Jun 10, 2018 6:38 pm

Hi capt – Yes, I well understand why you might ask this, ‘Why’. I personally have absolutely no reason to do this...none...’other than’, just to satisfy my curiosity. Again, anything that I have to say is always just my opinion. But it is awkward to state that before writing every time.
So...I have never had any barrel leading problems, other than what I would call minor....and my fault....and then I wouldn’t even call it a fault. During any serious experimenting one has to make mistakes – that is just part of learning. If one does not make any mistakes, they are not learning much. Though out my life I see it all of the time for example some people will just automatically take their automobile to a mechanic for anything that may need repairing. If they try to do it themselves, they might make a mistake. They are afraid to make a mistake...so here they are, 50 years old and have to go to a mechanic to have a fan belt replaced. And of course these same people will rationalize to themselves with all kinds of reasons why they should do this. One of the poorest reasons I see is, “Oh, my time is too valuable to do it myself.” I say, when I hear a person say this, I am looking at a loser, a loser plain and simple. And there are people that will say this about reloading, and then the real reason may be that they have been so afraid to learn new things that reloading is really a big step too far for them.

So I will say that I think that most people coat their bullets because they are curious, of heresy, or group think...or some combination of all. Sure, bear fat and bee’s wax will do the job. Lead is so much softer than the steel of a barrel so it isn’t barrel life that may cause them to experiment, the heat from the powder burning is where most of the riflings get worn away. So I gather that most want to do this to help reduce bore leading. I have solved this problem a long time ago by just talking a few minutes to lap a bore. So to repeat myself, I am just doing it to maybe learn something. I haven’t gotten around to making a simple tool to measure the affectivity and durability of a coating of a bullet. I have all of the necessary scrape material – just not taken the time.

For one thing when it comes to powder coating a bullet, I haven’t tried it. I have never had one in my hands to look at, to fiddle with. My only feeling with this is...when I see some metal fixtures that have been commercially powder coated, which I have all over the place, I see some hard durable stuff, so hard that I just can’t help but wonder what this hard stuff would do to a nice bore with all of those nice riflings. As far as accuracy goes, I haven’t gotten around to making any personal tests with this. And just my gut feeling tells me that I can’t see any reason that it should help with accuracy. This could be another mistake of mine – I don’t know. But on this I will say that I will not just take any YOU-TUBER’s video as proof one way or another. I am working on at least five or so projects right now and one of them is an idea that I saw on a You-Tube.

As for your question...nope, I sure have no idea. But I will say something that I am a firm believer of....”No one knows but a small almost infinitesimal amount about anything.”
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OLDGUNNER
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Re: BULLET COATING

#7 Post by OLDGUNNER » Tue Jun 12, 2018 2:24 pm

Nothing earth shattering here...but just what I have been finding out on Bullet Coating in the past couple of days. I would say the only reason that I may do it is to make some pretty bullets, but I don’t have the needs that some others may have. So far the only reason that I can see to do it is to reduce bore leading and since I am not afraid to lap the barrels, I find that just plain pan lubing is so simple and easy. Years ago I bought one Lyman Bullet Lube and Sizer for .45 and used it once. I soon realized that it was just something to sell, and sell the prepared stick lube.

The synthetic two–part Epoxy kits and powder coatings are out there for one to buy if they so desire...I just see it as a pain in the rear...but to each their own of course. As for bullet coating the MINWAX Fast Drying Polyurethane seems to work just fine for me and so far does not appear to be too much trouble. The only possible reason that I can see not to do it is the possibility of causing an out-of-balance bullet. So I will make up some in other calibers just to see how these things go. If I don’t do it, I won’t know. I still want to get to some of all of that Ponderosa Pine Resin in back...that is some tough stuff and easy to render.

And Pine Cones...yet to be tried for case polishing. Last Xmas I bought five pounds of assorted nuts and ground up the shells in a regular mixer along with the shells of two big bags of roasted Peanuts and it works perfectly in my vibrator case polisher. I look at these dried pine cones and see something that has about the right density for case polishing. I will grind them up also in a mixer and blow out the dust and other low density stuff and see what happens.

Anyway, the world will still turn...and with some luck I can still turn with it above ground.
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