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ANOTHER FWITW

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OLDGUNNER
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ANOTHER FWITW

#1 Post by OLDGUNNER » Wed Apr 18, 2018 9:55 am

https://www.lin-speed.com/linspeed-inst ... -to-video/
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Strictly for what it’s worth – I have talked to this guy Bill White on the phone – nice guy....I think that he is a son-in-law of one of the original George Brothers. I first happened upon this in the 50’s, and have been trying to duplicate this every since but to no avail. I have tried way over 101 ways to refinish a stock and could easily say that for me this is the most pleasant and best that I have come across. But I have not been able to figure out or find out just what they do to the regular boiled Linseed Oil. If someone knows, that would be great.

One exception - That dye he is using is expensive and I think unnecessary. I am just partial to the cheap Rit-Dyes...the same thing just repackaged. The dry powdered Rit-Dye mixed with Isopropyl Alcohol works good for me.

I think that most stock finishes are a varnish even if not advertised as such. This will not chip and is easily retouched – big advantage. Unfortunately I just checked and for the 1/2 pint can, it is now $40. The last one that I bought 15 years ago was $16. This to me indicates that it has really caught on.

If anyone has ever done any sanding on a stock and then found out that they did too much, can appreciate this regular ‘NO-SANDING’, if at all possible.
Last edited by OLDGUNNER on Thu Apr 19, 2018 4:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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OLDGUNNER
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Re: ANOTHER FWITW

#2 Post by OLDGUNNER » Wed Apr 18, 2018 12:17 pm

http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tnam ... ce&dbid=81
Trivia....
Way out there, maybe...but not – Stock finishing and good for you. You may have read about the WW2 Russian Flaxseed Oil and wood saw dust bread and thought how terrible, but......The Flaxseed oil is what is commonly called Linseed oil, and the wood was actually the cambium of the Birch Tree or even a Pine tree. Our news media just wanted to tell half the story when they showed pictures of the Russians having to eat that ‘Saw dust bread’. I was a kid and ‘saw’ exactly that on the news reels at the theaters.

This link is very long and thorough – just forget it if not interested....use Fax Seed Oil in your home-made bread and your body will love you for it – but leave a little for your gun stocks.

My cardiologist tells me to take Flaxseed Oil and and I do.

Trivia-Trivia...all trivia can’t be bad.
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OLDGUNNER
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Re: ANOTHER FWITW

#3 Post by OLDGUNNER » Thu Apr 19, 2018 4:29 pm

DSC_0035.JPG
This food grade Linseed oil is something that I hadn’t tried on stocks...until yesterday. In the past I have had trouble with plain Hardware Store Linseed Oil hardening in a reasonable time, for me. I wonder if the ‘Cold pressed’ with no additives has something to do with it. I have been into stock refinishing since I don’t know when. I know some may think it sacrilegious to mess with a surplus firearm – I am not one to feel this way. I think that they may have a temporary lost of reality. But after lapping a bore, it can be stock refinishing to enjoy with ‘any firearm’...for me. I have found myself looking at these things as, ‘If the coat doesn’t dry in one day, look for something else’. And I haven’t had any luck with plain Boiled Linseed Oil - I have seen it said that Linseed oil ‘never dries’. Technically, this may be true. I can see if a small dent can be made in a Linseed oil finish and not crack, it is not dry.

Anyway, last night I tried my Flaxseed oil supplement with one sample straight and another 1:1 with Paint thinner and both were dry this morning – thin coats...at least ‘dust dry’ to me. For me Linseed oil has not given me a nice looking glossy finish, which I like. I have been partial to FORMBY’S TUNG OIL FINISH. I realize that it is plain varnish, but a good varnish, for me. Yes, it says that it has Tung Oil in it, maybe one teaspoon per 100 gallon, or whatever. But this morning I mixed FORMBY’S, my Flaxseed Oil and paint thinner 1:1:1, and it is afternoonish and almost dry and glossy.

I read the Wikipedia article on Linseed oil and I have a feeling that this GB Lin-Speed OIl may be some version of what is described as ‘Bodied Oil’ or ‘Blown Oil’. Both of these oils are what I would call beyond the average work shop to make.

I know that a lot of people have good luck with the Birchwood TRUE-OIL...but I don’t. For me it dries too quick in a low humidity area. I find that it can dry in a minute to where one can’t go back and smooth it out. I have lived in Palmdale, California with humidity as low as 5 % and here in Colorado where we live it is typically in the high 20’s. I assume that this has a lot to do with it.

I have been slowly refinishing a stock on a Mosin Nagant 90/31 and I will try what I just tried this morning...and after five or so light coats will ‘Bone’ it. I have ‘boned’ one stock and in 15 or 20 minutes it looked like after maybe 20 coats of finish (But a few coats after the boning). By-the-way, I recently bought this good-looking rifle for an even $100 at a BIG 5 Store with the bayonet and all of the standard accessories in Farmington, New Mexico. If they buy them for less than this, why are they going for much more in most of the rest of the country?

OLDGUNNER
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Re: ANOTHER FWITW

#4 Post by OLDGUNNER » Thu Apr 19, 2018 11:27 pm

labpic.jpg
labpic.jpg (43.05 KiB) Viewed 509 times
Have you seen this picture of a reloading room? It may give one an idea for making an indoor shooting range like the one behind the glass enclosure - year around and maybe just under ground for noise abatement.

Most everyone here has helped pay for this.
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