Well, the board is either fixed, or it's going to run terribly. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. I'm at my technical limit right now.

JUST FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH

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OLDGUNNER
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JUST FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH

#1 Post by OLDGUNNER » Mon Mar 05, 2018 2:36 pm

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It has been working for me for 20 years - Good as most, better than some.
After this, a couple of licks with a Wet Stone.
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DaleH
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Re: JUST FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH

#2 Post by DaleH » Mon Mar 05, 2018 2:45 pm

For knife or chisel?

OLDGUNNER
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Re: JUST FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH

#3 Post by OLDGUNNER » Sat May 26, 2018 9:02 am

I couldn't figure out how I would sharpen a chisel with it, conveniently, so yes I use it just for knives. I have made an assortment of chisel sharpeners. But, I can use those for knives also, right? :)
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OLDGUNNER
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Re: JUST FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH

#4 Post by OLDGUNNER » Sat May 26, 2018 9:02 pm

https://www.americanrifleman.org/articl ... ronograph/

Oh my gosh – I just saw this. I have a regular chronograph but I could never justify in my mind the accuracy because of the design. It works on some kind of shadow principle and I would never just automatically believe the results. The readouts would vary from shot-to shot of course and I wouldn’t know the cause. This is very similar to a college Physics lab class where we determined the amount of gravity at our latitude by measuring the distance between the burn spots threw wax paper as a weight dropped. I have designed a chronograph where the bullet breaks two fine wire grids and time the distance for the travel between them, but I have not gotten around to making it - just the start and stop of an oscillator. And now I happen to have a Ford Model T Coil in the garage. But I don’t see why a regular door bell buzzer could not be modified and used just as well.

So, FWTW...someone should make one and see if it works.
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OLDGUNNER
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Re: JUST FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH

#5 Post by OLDGUNNER » Sat Jun 16, 2018 4:20 pm

Remember the other day when I said that I could quench O-1 steel in Elephant pee. Well the author of this article realizes this also. Look at page 40, note (4). I knew this when I said it. I know what a spray bottle is. I know what a Heat Treating Spray-Booth is. When a shade-tree blacksmith says that O-1 steel has to be quenched in oil only, I can’t help it if they have not bothered to familiarize themselves with other than just what they have been told or read. That’s just the way things are. And look at page 98.

Another thing if you will notice, the above article is devoted to the standard industry ‘Heat Treating Theory’. All of the information mostly involves, Heating, Quenching and Tempering. And probable most Shade-Tree blacksmiths just stick with this – it works, and besides they have heard, ‘If it isn’t broken, don’t fix it’. Well I won’t say it is broken but I will say that there are other ways to do these things.

One way I have known for years is to, anneal, cool, heat and quench. I have not really done much other than to just do it with samples just to prove to myself that it works. It eliminates the tempering stage. It mainly tends to help eliminate the distortion and cracking with so called ‘Oil’ quenching alloys and there is the bother with heating the oil to further help with the cracking, etc. Just don’t quench it at these higher temperatures. But I have had no need go out and buy a rather pricy tempering oven just to play with because I have found that it involves a whole new set of temperatures using ‘my’ Heat Treating Theory.

I thought of this when I wanted to buy some annealed tool steel stock to make little things. I was led to believe that I had to make the item, then go through this standard Heat Treating rigamorole. And then just the other day I found some rather new high-temp non-contact thermometers on the market where I saw should make things a little easier. I think that it is just great technology for 17 plus for temperatures up 1069 F, it appears to work just fine.

Okay to my ‘Theory’...I have never seen it mentioned or talked about. Take a piece of O-1, W1 or A1, or ‘anyone’ of the hundreds of other types of steels and heat it up to a nice cherry red...it doesn’t make any difference if it has been hardened or all ready annealed let it soak there for a few minutes, depending on its physical size....let it cool slowly...do your work with it, whatever...then heat it up to some temperature that you have experimentally determined will give you what you may want. Use a wire brush or whatever to clean off a spot to better read the temperature. Quench in hot oil to water with ice cubes and salt. Now there will be a point that the metal has been heated to that will still cause some alloys to crack when quenched too quickly, and if this occurs just use the hot oil or spray with the water spray bottle. I understand that this may depend on the Manganese content of the alloy, I don’t know.

This has been said by some years ago and I buy it, ‘Lock, stock, and barrel’. “Never be limited by other’s limited imagination.”

FWTW
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OLDGUNNER
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Re: JUST FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH

#6 Post by OLDGUNNER » Sat Jun 16, 2018 6:40 pm

https://www.secowarwick.com/wp-content/ ... k.2011.pdf

Oh heck. I just realized that the link didn't copy with my last post.
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