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M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#16 Post by professrh » Sat Jun 09, 2018 10:41 pm

I feel your pain. I once managed to scorch the stock of a 24/47 with a clamp light and a 60-watt bulb. (Up until then, the process was working fine and pulling lots of cosmoline. It seemed safe. Live and learn).

I never did get that scorch mark out completely, but I did manage to remove some or most of the charred wood. In the end, it was not noticeable at a glance, though it's easy to see if you're looking for it.

If this were my rifle, I would probably try the razor scraper or some other very sharp blade, and maybe some very careful and judicious use of fine sandpaper. I would not expect to make the damage go away, but I'd hope to minimize it. I'd hope for some help in darkening the surrounding wood by using BLO or RLO. I would also probably use some Tom's Mix.

Of course, before I listened to anything Professrh said, I would study everything I could find from Candyman!

Good luck, and all best,

Prof

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#17 Post by Smokey » Sun Jun 10, 2018 8:38 am

Looking carefully at the picture, that's a deep burn, so some kind of patch/fill will be needed. There's some good suggestions above. I would suggest attempting a repair since it's the original wood. If it's a case of replacing it as an alternative, at least fix it to be usable and somewhat presentable. What do you have to lose?
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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#18 Post by bobvz » Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:40 pm

Select an area with a similar grain pattern to cut the patch from. A belt sander is the best tool to get flat surfaces on donor and recipient. Take a Dremel diamond wheel and cut some short slots in both pieces to increase shear resistance and glue area. Use a 45 minute set epoxy. Mix some stock sanding dust in it to color. Clamp and let cure for at least 24 hrs. Shape, sand and finish. The Birch stock will stain more evenly if you do a conditioning coat of 50:50 shellac and denatured alcohol. Scuff with Scotchbrite and then stain.

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#19 Post by CRomanos » Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:43 pm

My plan is to go with Tom's 1/3, no stain at all. Hoping i'm can start to tackle this tonight

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#20 Post by bobvz » Tue Jun 12, 2018 8:09 pm

If you are going that route then use a cyanoacrylate glue like super glue to get the thinnest joint you can.

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#21 Post by 72 usmc » Wed Jun 13, 2018 11:06 am

Zap-a-Gap or Hot-Stuff brands work well on dry wood like used on wood model kits and is found at Hobby shops. It does not stick too great to oil impregnated woods found on surplus gun stocks. "Hot stuff" brand is high quality glue used on RC big kits. Avoid Gorilla Glue it is an isocyanate glue that will expand out of the crack and when clamped loosely it actually makes a larger gap between the wood if not clamped real, real tight. It is garbage on stocks because it finds its way out of a crack or joint and will leave excess foam spill. It is great where you want a cheep glue to fill a void like on loose vintage chair legs where a repair is not done properly- just a quick insertion of glue into the loose leg. Most would disassemble the wood chair, then clean the joints, check for fit, then reglue with a nice wood glue like Titebond III, a water based, exterior, and waterproof glue when dry. It has the yellowed look like old hide glue and has that vintage look, yet provides a good strength to furniture.
http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id ... 3970f736af

On some furniture applications Devon 2 ton is a better choice for a bond if the wood is not real dry. So the choice of glue depends on the wood condition, interior or exterior use, degree of strength required, how fast you want the glue to cure, and what is best for the project and wood condition/type.

Candyman and others generally use Brownells Acraglass on gun stocks which is the best in my experience for both minor repairs like wood patches or cracks or major reconstructions with missing wood. But it costs $$.
https://shop.brownells.com/gunsmith-too ... gKDLvD_BwE
The stuff gets hot and thinner just before it starts setting. Clamping is also recommended. Some use the air pressure or a hypodermic needle trick to blow or insert the glue into cracks to make sure it gets to the inside bottom of a tight crack. Some slightly force open a crack when inserting the glue. You do not have a crack so its easy. :arrow: You just want the wood patch to be glued on with a tight joint and no wide glue line. Most of the work will be finding a donor patch of correct grain and wood and cutting a notch in the stock to fit/attach the donor patch. Making the patch fit the notch or dovetail on the stock takes lots of hand fitting -- cutting-shaping to get the two surfaces to fit tight.

Glue choice is easy. A cheeper alternative than Acraglass, but also good, is Devcon 2 ton epoxy or the Devcon 5 minute 1500 epoxy.
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/ ... gJbPfD_BwE

The 2 ton stuff holds and sticks to old wood that has been cleaned with a thinner. Devcon provides a longer work time and does not leave a glue line if clamped. It can also be used to mix wood dust for a sort of wood putty that matches and takes a stain similar to the surrounding wood. The 5 minute stuff can be used to make a quick setting putty you can form on small toy repairs to match contours of missing or broken edges, but as it sets and acts like a putty you got about 1 minute to shape and stick it into the repair on small items so no sanding or shaping is needed.

Sorry, a little long winded..., make the donor patch and get a fantastic tight fit onto the stock. See Candymans stickies if the pictures are still intact on wood patches. Or research wood patches on stocks or furniture. Then use the best glue you can buy. You will be concerned not so much with strength, but wood match and patch fit. Just about any glue except Gorilla will work, but consider that cosmo soaked stock. I would use Brownells Acraglass as a first choice, second Devcon, and third, the way to fast acting Hot stuff-- it has been my experience that it will not give you time to carefully fit and clamp the repair. If you want a glue to work fast like on a rc airplane, use Hotstuff, it will hold dry wood.
http://www.caglue.com/HS-4-Hot-Stuff-Th ... gIfbPD_BwE
It also has a spray on accelerator if you want to improve the bond.
So there is my :confusion-confused: :twocents-02cents: :twocents-mytwocents:


:idea: It would be neat to make a post with step by step pictures on a how you fixed this damage and results with suggestions for others.
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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#22 Post by CRomanos » Thu Jun 14, 2018 12:52 am

Over the past couple of days I've spent a few hours gently scraping away the damaged area to get to clean(er) wood. Between the original burn and scraping away the charcoal, I lost about 2 mm of wood, which still makes this M44 stock wider than a 91/59 stock I compared it to at the same location.

I'm thinking at this point that burnishing the wood and applying a few coats of Tom's 1/3 or straight BLO would be the best way to go. I'm strongly considering not filling in the burned out area - it doesn't seem to be necessary for strength, and I expect the gluing on and contouring a piece of arctic birch I scavenge from a ruined stock probably wouldn't look any better than this, and might actually look much, much worse.

Pictures below - and as always very open to suggestions. I'm not sure how well the burnt part would take the Tom's or BLO. I don't have experience with these things, but I expect that the wood would have different characteristics at that location than it would elsewhere.

Would wood-bleach make a difference here, or does that risk discoloring the wood?

The stained area looks darker in one of the pics, due to the camera angle.
20180614_003059.jpg
20180614_003045.jpg

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#23 Post by CRomanos » Thu Jun 14, 2018 1:00 am

A different angle - from the top of the rifle looking down.
20180614_005545.jpg

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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#24 Post by Ozzman » Thu Jun 14, 2018 6:29 pm

Looks like image of Jesus.

Your stock is truly blessed my friend.
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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#25 Post by 72 usmc » Thu Jun 14, 2018 10:27 pm

Not a bleach of the burned area, rather, consider the surrounding wood. Did you scrape the surrounding area to blend in the low area? blend in a wee bit more of the surrounding area and .....
Your result is Not bad, here is a dumb idea :doh: :snooty: :think: You can flame darken or chemically darken the surrounding intact wood just a wee bit to match and highlight the grain????? You may also be able to match in the surrounding wood with a light dye wash/rub-- ever so slight. Then just a portion of the stock will get this treatment to highlight the grain and blend in the wood surrounding the burn.
I would use a transparent thin wash/stain.

Take a golden yellowish varnish, or brown dye whatever is used on the wood has to be very, very transparent, and used in moderation. Applying a light stain with a wisk of a dry rag and scraping will certainly increase the darken the clean surrounding producing a flame contrast. Do not use any inside the original burn, you just want to match in the surrounding wood accenting the grain. The trick will be to keep the transparent stain light, and stop before the flame appears to obvious because the wipe of tom's mix will darken what you do after toms mix is applied. It's like how Minwax" natural" stain is used as a wipe to high light wood color and bring out the grain in a stock or piece of furniture. Key is the amount on the rag and a matching color, use so very little that it's almost dry and it's like a soft rub on a cats belly. Do not soak it in. It is just a tad bit of fake high light given to the surrounding wood to blend it in to match the lower slightly darken area.

Take a piece of unstained beech or pine and use toms mix and Mini wax natural stain as a wipe on the wood and see what effect you like. You may want to high light with PINE TAR ( a golden yellow brown) the kind you get at horse supply stores- thin with turpentine as a high light agent. You can brown it out more with Fibbing's leather dye. Try some on your bare wood practice board and see what you think. What ever you decide, always practice on a bare wood board to see if produces the effect you want prior to applying on the stock.

Brickmore pine tar is in US at horse supply stores it is a lighter yellowish brown. Real Swedish of Finn Pine tar is darker. Use only as a high light agent. Research pine tar and the color range it produces depending on wood type and brand of Pine tar.
see this link for the real stuff $$$$$ http://www.solventfreepaint.com/pine-tar.htm
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Re: M44 Stock - burn in wrist (oy!)

#26 Post by bobvz » Fri Jun 15, 2018 8:58 pm

If you have extra wood all around then just reshape the stock to eliminate the burned area and finish.

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