Well, the board is either fixed, or it's going to run terribly. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. I'm at my technical limit right now.

M91/59 stock crack

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CRomanos
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M91/59 stock crack

#1 Post by CRomanos » Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:57 pm

I have a 91/59 with a crack in the stock right in front of the wrist (pics below).

It's not wide, but if I flex the stock, it does open up literally a hair's breadth, both on the side of the stock, and inside, where the rear bolt of the receiver comes through.

Any suggestions as to the best way to repair this? I would like it to be invisible, or at least correct so as to not damage either the value, historical or otherwise, of this rifle.

The attachment 20180310_164442.jpg is no longer available
20180310_164442.jpg

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Re: M91/59 stock crack

#2 Post by CRomanos » Sat Mar 10, 2018 5:00 pm

Another pic - had some issues adding to the original post
20180310_164451.jpg

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Re: M91/59 stock crack

#3 Post by 72 usmc » Wed Mar 14, 2018 10:53 am

Since most of candyman's posts were wiped out due to the photo bucket kill see these links to get an idea

Candyman's old post with missing photos viewtopic.php?f=61&t=1229

https://www.northeastshooters.com/xen/t ... ep.295364/

https://www.gun-tests.com/special_repor ... qk2HmbMxQY

The only two epoxy resins to use are first choice Brownells Arcaglass which is $$$$$ or Devcon 2 ton clear epoxy. DO NOT USE WOOD GLUES and never Gorilla garbage on a stock.

also see http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread. ... epair-Glue
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: M91/59 stock crack

#4 Post by 72 usmc » Wed Mar 14, 2018 6:47 pm

Here is an intact version of Candymans post:
http://m14forum.com/stock/84336-how-mak ... stock.html
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: M91/59 stock crack

#5 Post by 72 usmc » Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:04 pm

And if you like brass cross pins like seen on Enfields see this :

http://wonderwolfs.blogspot.com/2016/02 ... brass.html
https://www.theboxotruth.com/educationa ... lit-stock/

Also see Mosin stock repair : http://russian-mosin-nagant-forum.com/v ... hp?t=26263
Pictures of original Russian repair jobs for ideas: http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread. ... ck-repairs
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: M91/59 stock crack

#6 Post by CRomanos » Sun Mar 18, 2018 1:51 am

Thanks!

I love the box o truth guy, but shuddered at him duracoating that Enfield. I've seen the brass screw repair before, and heard that it's consistent with British repairs, but I'm trying to maintain this rifle's historical value, and that's not something I've seen on Mosins.

I'll take another look at the gun to figure out the direction I'd need to run the dowel. I was hoping to make this repair invisible, but I'm not sure I'll be able to.

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Re: M91/59 stock crack

#7 Post by Smokey » Sun Mar 18, 2018 5:52 am

"Do not use wood glue" There's a wide variety of wood glues, the best ones will be stronger than the original wood. I repaired a broken stock with the stuff many years ago on a Finned M91. It's still sound.
Arguing with someone who denounces reason is like administering medicine to a corpse.

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Re: M91/59 stock crack

#8 Post by 72 usmc » Mon Mar 19, 2018 12:41 am

Wood glue works on dry non oily/sappy woods. Most surplus rifle stocks have too much oil/cosmo in them, heck some seep out oil in the sun or when they get hot from shooting. Hence, then best glues that work are listed above. If you want a wood glue that can be inserted into a crack and may or may not hold together then Titebond III or Purbond polyurethane works a little better on oily woods. Purebond foams up and the crack must be clamped together securely so it does not open and dry showing a glue line/crack. If securely clamped and it holds/bonds ok, then most of the times the crack is hard to see after the glue drys.
So on dry woods like hunting rifle stocks any wood glue water based or polyurethane would work. Purebond is used in boat building.
I find best results using acetone to clean the wood then use epoxy glues for a sure fix bond. Hence, most used Decon 2 ton or best: Brownells Arcaglass .
For dry woods normal glue is fine and most hunting rifles never had the cosmo problem or motor oil as a way to keep the stock dry and condition a stock.
Wood pins produce more bonding surface and if the crack is oil soaked it allows for the best clean wood surface surrounding the crack so glue holds the crack, but mainly the additional area allows for the best bond and a stronger repair. One can also use a number of vertical wood thin bamboo pins to pin the crack together. The tiny hole is fixed/filled with a wood dust/glue mix made from the drill dust and your glue. This sort of homemade putty will match the surrounding wood. Others let the wood pins or wood patches over cracks show as seen in the original Russian wood repair link. Use hard wood dowels or bamboo pins. I have also used fishing rod fiberglass pins cut from the thin sections of fishing poles. These will have to be given a rough, uneven surface so more glue holds the pins. I do this to both wood pins and fiberglass dowels/pins. Never use tooth picks. You can also use brass pins set in like nails with some glue. But they can come loose. Some use screw-like, brass pins that are both glued and screwed into/across the crack then set even with the wood or lower and the wood dust putty is used to patch/blend in the small hole to hid its location. Generally, my pins are never larger than pencil lead. It all depends on the pins position, type of crack, location of the crack, and type of repair called for. Do I want it too show or be hidden? Most pins are done inside the stock so the metal action hides the repair.

So I never just glue a crack; I reenforce it so the glue in the crack has a stronger back up. You also have to find the reason why the crack occurred. What caused the problem? Find out and also fix it .


For dry wood like furniture, clocks, wood toys, or cabinet repair where dowel pins came loose from moisture and the old hide glue, then Titebond III Ultimate works great. It is a water clean up, polyurethane wood glue that does not foam up or creep so much. It is a inexpensive great wood glue for non oily or really sappy wood. So I guess you use what you like- my experience on surplus stocks taught me use Brownells ACRAGLAS ($25 a kit) or Devcon 2 ton epoxy ($4-$6) depending on the amount of repair needed. If the glue fails it is almost impossible to clean the failed poorly sticking glue from a tight crack and get it tight so it looks hidden with the correct glue on the second try. The crack is sort of forced open by the older failed glue and it produces a wider glue joint/crack that just can not clamp together without leaving a visible glue line. You also have produced a poor bonding surface for the correct glue on the second attempt. With a tight crack that you have opened slightly and are forcing glue into with a syringe, you generally have one try to glue it and clamp it for a real tight repair fit. You generally have one shot at getting the glue in and holding on a tight crack. I want the job done the first time and pay a little extra for the better glue on oily wood. Granted they have a short shelf life- I generally use fresh glue each time. Wood glues can sit for a long time and still work fine, epoxy mixes not so much. Always check the date on the glue you use, you do not want a one two year old epoxy kit. The type of wood is a factor in what glue to use. The type of repair is also a factor in the choice of glue. If it is two broken pieces that can be separated, then the surfaces can be recleaned and reglued more easily. Some real craftsmen like Candyman or Cabinetman repair splintered breaks where I would just get a replacement stock. Can you guess what glue they use?

Granted Candyman is the forum wood expert and I have not heard from him in awhile, maybe he will comment. It is always best to read his many stickies- he is an expert at wood repairs and finishes.

This is a great post that remains intact without photo loss http://m14forum.com/stock/84336-how-mak ... stock.html

I will add even with an epoxy you can have a glue job failure under stress-- That's why the repair is backed up by pins, dowels, or wood patchs.
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: M91/59 stock crack

#9 Post by bobvz » Wed Mar 21, 2018 10:06 pm

The key is the de-grease in the crack. Acetone is your friend. If you can coat the out side with "whiting" then sweat it out with heat and do the final rinse with acetone more the better. My shop does this regularly with O/U and SxS shotguns. Many drenched in gun oil. Our fixes have yet to fail in over 10 years. If there is a question about strength we glass in brass or SS threaded rods and/or bamboo rods across the crack. Use a slow set epoxy that will soak in. Lastly you must correct the problem that caused the crack in the first place. Usually bedding. Wood is like a hard sponge. Over time it will shrink as it dries and is subject to recoil hammering. Any gaps in the recoil zone have to be bedded. Tangs will split the stock like a wedge if bedding on the flats is not correct.

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Re: M91/59 stock crack

#10 Post by Candyman » Sun Apr 08, 2018 1:40 pm

Sorry that I haven’t been around much. My regular job has been keeping me so busy. Been putting in 53 plus hours a week for the last year.
And the health issues from cancer treatments have me to the poin that I almost can’t talk.
What I do recommend is that you go and read the repair topics that so many members were able to save and re post. There are tips in each one of them that will answer just about any question.
There is a post that covers the repair on a Mosin stock with the same crack. The key to this repair is to stop the forward running edge of the crack. Most all of the repair should be done on the inside of the stock.
First locat the front of the crack and place a pice of masking tape about an inch in front of it, this will mark the most forward part of the repair.
Use a good epoxy with a 30 min set time. Brownell’s Acraglas is the best, but Devcon 2 ton clear will work too.
Be sure to remove any oil. Clamp the crack closed and then drill into it from inside the stock from the top of the stock, down into the stock. These will be anchor point. The crack at the back of the tang will need to be drilled at an angle to cut across the crack. Now back to the forward edge of the crack and the tape. You want to drill just forward of the crack to make sure you stop the crack from running.
Once the holes are drilled cut your dowels to fit the holes. Your dowels should stick out almost an inch. This makes them easer to work with. Remove the clamp, mix your epoxy. Apply the epoxy into the crack and flex to work it into the crack. Next put epoxy into the holes and insert the dowels and clampthe stock.
After the epoxy has harden, just dress it up.
Now if you read through my repair post first, you will need have a better understanding of the repair work I just went over.

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Re: M91/59 stock crack

#11 Post by CRomanos » Sun Apr 08, 2018 6:05 pm

Thanks, Candyman!

Unfortunately, my free time has gone out the window since I posted this, but I'm hoping to be able to get back to this soon.

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