Well, the board is either fixed, or it's going to run terribly. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. I'm at my technical limit right now.

Installing Recoil Plates in a Coachwood Stock

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Zeliard
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Installing Recoil Plates in a Coachwood Stock

#1 Post by Zeliard » Thu Sep 07, 2017 10:02 pm

Originally posted by e551st.

Well now, the kids started school and I’m off from work.:) I received new Recoil Plates w/ screws from Brian Bick of BDLLTD this week, for my latest Aussie No1 Mk111. Now for the fun part, the installation! Tools needed, 1 ¾ chisel, 1 Black & Decker hand driver, 2 bit extensions, 1 1/16 drill bit, 1 number 6 slotted bit and plenty of patience.

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An image of a Naked Coachwood stock missing the Recoil Plates

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Sizing up the RP’s in the stock, and for a representation of how much material will need to be removed.

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Photo’s of the reciprocating receiver parts.

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I started on the left side of the stock, because I’m left handed and it’s easier for me to work on with the chisel. Plus, this is the lengthiest part for fitting, as material is removed slowly and carefully. Care is taken only to remove what’s necessary and no more.

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Here, I have already removed enough material to allow the RP to fit flush with the Recoil Blocks on the stock. The manner for removal of the wood, was pushing down by hand, and removing small amounts.

Top View of the wood removed from the left side. At this point, I also scored the left side Recoil Block by holding a Recoil Plate where it’s going then marked it with a chisel, by pressing down firmly.

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Now for the fun part! I removed the wood slowly and deliberately with and even upward stroke. As you can see not a lot of wood is removed in each stroke. I found out later that using the other side of the chisel worked better for me. Even being careful, I did find high spots that had to be removed in the process.

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After a bit, the debris was building up;

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Several the key points I kept checking on the Recoil Block was;

1. The angle remains the same as the other Recoil Block
2. Removing wood evenly perpendicular to the side, so the Recoil Plate will sit flat against the Recoil Lug when the action is fitted.
3. Once I got close to the scored wood, I slowed down. It’s time to start fitting the action.

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After number 3, I continued removing wood, but after every 2-3 scrapes, I test fitted the receiver. I kept looking down through the action to see how much more material needed to be removed, before I proceeded. (I removed the sear for better pictures, but it doesn’t need to be removed).

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SHAZAM! :D One side down, one to go! The pencil is pointing at the visible Recoil Plate. The stock fits tight, but not too tight, I didn’t want to require a sledge hammer to get the forestock off.

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Front view of the finished side.* Notice the crack in the center of the stock, I’ll have to deal with this later*

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Sizing up the other side, I’ve already scored this block the same way as the left side.

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A picture of wood removal on the right wall of the stock.

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Here, again I’m checking to see if the Plate sits flush, and is out of the way of the trigger sear.

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Now, with the left side completed, I was able to expedite the installation of the right side. Using the scored wood and visually checking the receiver gap, by placing the stock on the receiver, I eliminated a lot of on/off stock placement. Here’s the gap on the finished left side w/o RP, and the unfinished right side w/o RP. Even though, I was working a bit quicker, I still continued checking the initial key points listed above.

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Just over 3 hours and both Recoil Plates are ready to be secured.

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Don’t laugh at my jerry rigging, but I haven’t found an easier way to drill the screw holes. Using an electric driver with 2 extensions and a 1/16 drill bit. I marked the hole with the RP in place. I then used a black sharpie and marked the depth on the drill bit, and set the hole. Works like a charm.

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:(Work Stoppage- The 2nd brass screw failed to have the slot engraved.

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No problemo, that’s what dremel tools are made for. Back in business!

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Second hole drilled and tapped.

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Both plates installed, ready for the action.

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Action in place, both plates visible with the sear installed too.

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Aussie SMLE No1 Mk111 ready for the range- Total time around 4 hours. :thumb:

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I hope this helps others who have the Coachwood No1 MkIII’s that don’t have recoil Plates. By no means is this the end all for RP installation, but the way I have done it everytime.
Last edited by Zeliard on Sun Sep 10, 2017 10:14 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Proud alumni of Transylvanian Polygnostic University. "Know enough to be afraid."

"Vertroue in God en die Mauser".-Faith in God and the Mauser.

"Send lawyers, guns and money." -Warren Zevon

indy1919a4
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Re: Installing Recoil Plates in a Coachwood Stock

#2 Post by indy1919a4 » Thu Sep 07, 2017 11:13 pm

Darn nice work and Darn nice photo display... Many thanks

DaleH
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Re: Installing Recoil Plates in a Coachwood Stock

#3 Post by DaleH » Fri Sep 08, 2017 10:47 pm

Agreed! I'm glad I don't need to do it ... but if I had to, I'm confident I could do it with your great tutorial.

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Re: Installing Recoil Plates in a Coachwood Stock

#4 Post by 72 usmc » Sat Sep 09, 2017 11:02 pm

Actually my records and photo copy of this original post indicate it was by author e551st and my photo copy is complete and dated 30 Aug 2012.
These are all his or her original photos and this former original post was updated on this date in 2012 with new photos by this author in the old forum. My early cloud link to it is missing, but this is much better than a link- thanks for all the work. This was one of the greats on the former forum with lots of hits and down loads. Back in 2012 each photo and its subheading would print out on an individual page about almost full size. This should also print out just fine. A WORD TO THE WISE--Best to save it while you can for your records. The old one took 36 full pages in color ink to print out-- well worth the ink considering how many time this great post was lost or photos disappeared in the past.
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

72 usmc
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Re: Installing Recoil Plates in a Coachwood Stock

#5 Post by 72 usmc » Sat Sep 09, 2017 11:46 pm

It would be great if you could find/reproduce Lee-enfield223's post from 3 April 2013 entittled: FITTING and MAKING NEW COPPER RECOIL PADS FOR LITHGOWS. There were 20 posts and a dimensions sheet. This was first posted on 16 Jan. 2009, but has 20 posts with some good info ending on 2013. php?f=120&t=70225 I am not sure how to find this old post.
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

72 usmc
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Re: Installing Recoil Plates in a Coachwood Stock

#6 Post by 72 usmc » Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:25 pm

There are many informative posts about putting in and fixing recoil plates, but the one by E551st on the old forum was the best. All of these old posts suffer from the "photobucket" photo loss. Gunboards has a 2007 post started by ptrthgr8 and replied by E Horton. It is an ancient post worth a read and link as background information and added pointers. It suffers from loss of most photos. Again, another reason to print out posts that are important to you or are significant contributions prior to their loss. After this all goes down, if you printed it out, you are the lucky one that still retains the information. See
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread. ... elp-needed
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: Installing Recoil Plates in a Coachwood Stock

#7 Post by Zeliard » Sun Sep 10, 2017 10:14 pm

Oops! Issues fixed.Thanks, 72 USMC. Don't drink and edit, kids! :)

I definitely second 72 USMC's suggestion of saving anything you want to keep, just in case.
Proud alumni of Transylvanian Polygnostic University. "Know enough to be afraid."

"Vertroue in God en die Mauser".-Faith in God and the Mauser.

"Send lawyers, guns and money." -Warren Zevon

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