Well, the board is either fixed, or it's going to run terribly. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. I'm at my technical limit right now.

Oil Blackening?

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Tommy Atkins
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Re: Oil Blackening?

#16 Post by Tommy Atkins » Wed Apr 17, 2019 7:47 pm

mo:
DSCF2414.JPG

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Re: Oil Blackening?

#17 Post by Tommy Atkins » Wed Apr 17, 2019 7:48 pm

Shooters eye view:
DSCF2426.JPG

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Re: Oil Blackening?

#18 Post by Polock » Thu Apr 18, 2019 12:32 pm

Mr Atkins--Looks great. Thank u for sharing this with us--
"I have never seen a situation so desperate that the arrival of a policeman did not make worse"
Brendan Behan, Irish poet

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Re: Oil Blackening?

#19 Post by Tommy Atkins » Thu Apr 18, 2019 3:08 pm

Thanks, you're welcome.

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Re: Oil Blackening?

#20 Post by 72 usmc » Sat Apr 20, 2019 11:36 am

To finish off this excellent tutorial, how about the pic with arrows showing what cold blue brand you used on each major section. Maybe why you chose it to help others understand? Which one was used on the numbers slide that buffed off so easy. Did you warm specific parts prior to the application of the blue? Did you mix any with an oil to retard retention to produce a more gray worn patina? Good to see you did not use black grill paint on the numbers. Most EXCELLENT results!
I like that it does not look brand spanking new and retains a patina, like it was never touched. :clap: :dance:

Before and after photos.

BEFORE
No9 sight opened.JPG
No9 sight opened.JPG (92.96 KiB) Viewed 1257 times

AFTER
DSCF2414.JPG
DSCF2414.JPG (84.35 KiB) Viewed 1257 times
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: Oil Blackening?

#21 Post by Tommy Atkins » Sat Apr 20, 2019 4:59 pm

It was very much experimental.
Basically the tempered parts like the rear spring, took the creme blue better & the unhardened preferred the B/C wet product.
But there were exceptions.
The mount (unhardened so it can be bent to create a dead vertical position) liked the opposite! The windage arm (drum) preferred the exact opposite!
I'd honestly say test on your project & use what is best where it works best.
No parts were warmed, it was all room temperature.
No oil was used anywhere in fact I degreased multiple times to ensure there was not a trace of the stuff.
What I do is to oil copiously right after finishing & then i let it sit for a few days, unmolested.
This seems in some way to make it "harder" as a finish? I don't know whether it "sets", "cures", or "hardens", but it does whatever it does to be more permanent if you just let it sit all alone & oily.

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