Well, the board is either fixed, or it's going to run terribly. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. I'm at my technical limit right now.

1935A

Les Révolvers et Pistolets de Militaires Français, Mle.1873, 1892, 1935, Unique, Ruby, et alia
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Tuna
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1935A

#1 Post by Tuna » Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:03 pm

Gentleman. I just picked up a 1935 A with a worn finish. The last owner felt it was a wall hanger but when I took it apart I found it to be quite the opposite. Internally in good shape with nice shiny bore. The rails have finish wear as does the rest of the exterior of the pistol., What would be a best guesstimate on value of this. The serial number is in the A block with what appears to be a T in front of the serial number. Any thoughts are appreciated.

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Re: 1935A

#2 Post by 72 usmc » Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:51 pm

Value depends on location and French collectors in the area; then the condition of the pistol, its markings, bore, grip condition, holster and how many mags??? Ammo is 1 buck a round or more. And the brass may or may not fire depending on the pistol and the way the brass was machined. Each pistol has its own traits on how it does or does not fire ammo. Original French ammo is too old and will have dead primers. So you have a nice wall hanger, and if it does fire the new ammo, the brass is tossed into the next state and you generally have a high loss rate. I'd say $150 -300. Not too many takers on the French .32 longue pistols. Peterson' 6th edition book price/value PP. 93-94.
Standard model 1935A : poor $100-Excellent like new $300, VG $200, Good $150.
German Waffenamt marked 1935 A Excellent like new $475- poor$150. Good $275, Fair $200
Holsters $50-85
mags $15 35

Parts are worth more than the pistol- there are no parts. Extractors are the hardest to find. So how worn is it? Most repair the German marked ones. Photos please
See the two old posts on .32 French longue ammo. Welcome to the club.

It is a fantastic pistol and if Prvi were to ever make factory ammo the pistols price would rise in value for both the 1935 A and 1935 S to $500-600 overnight. But many have contacted Prvi and there are no plans to make any correct factory brass or ammo. :roll: :doh: :shifty: :shifty: :shifty:

Get some ammo at https://www.buffaloarms.com/7-65mm-fren ... -amo765mas
and see if that pistol fires or jams /bottlenecks. Different batches have different cuts, some boxes work some do not. It is pistol specific.

I assume you saw this old post viewtopic.php?f=43&t=1557
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: 1935A

#3 Post by Tuna » Thu Mar 22, 2018 9:55 pm

Oh yes I have seen those posts. I am not new to the 7.65 Long cartridge and have dies for it. The worst part is the exterior finish and I am thinking of having it reblued. I do have a 1935 S that I shoot and enjoy. The slide does seem to be a bit on the loose side and not like my 1935 S. Almost like it's been shot a lot but that is not likely and there is no build up of carbon anywhere on or in the pistol. I have ordered a set of new springs for it, recoil and firing pin. The bore is perfect. Thanks for the estimates of value on it. And yes I wish PPU would make a run of the 7.65 long.

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Re: 1935A

#4 Post by 72 usmc » Fri Mar 23, 2018 1:45 pm

Do you cut /machine your own brass? What ammo :brass, bullet, and load do you use? Have you tried Buffalo ammo in your 1935 S ? Ever use OWS ammo or Glad custom ammo in .32 french longue?
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: 1935A

#5 Post by Tuna » Sun Mar 25, 2018 2:38 pm

I only use my cut down brass or some Bertrum in 7.65 that I bought years ago. I had to use .32 acp dies which did not work very well at all. So I just stopped reloading for the 7.65. I recently was able to get in on a multiple purchase of Lee custom made dies in 7.65 long. Now I use these to load all of my brass and what a difference it has made.

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Re: 1935A

#6 Post by SWIHARTMARK » Fri Mar 30, 2018 10:33 pm

How deep is the rifling in your M1936A? Mine appears rather shallow. I recently made my own cases from 32 S&W long. It took some doing and tooling had to be made, but it worked. I went and got the C4HD dies myself. I found I had to seat the bullet deeper than expected, but it worked. Nice looking pistols and I believe the ballistics aren't as bad as people say. Of course, stopping power with pistol rounds pales with that of a rifle round, so comparisons to me are rather pointless unless your target is on drugs.

I've been studying prices for both the A and S versions of the pistol and I'm surprised they are not cheaper due to a lack of ammo and cases. Either the owners are enamored with them, or real greedy. As for finding parts, to bad they aren't cheaper because I just don't see many parts out there.

Down the road get yourself a Ruby pistol from WWI made in Spain for the French. Those are a hoot. Take Care.

Best Regards,

Masrk

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Re: 1935A

#7 Post by Tuna » Sun Apr 01, 2018 4:16 pm

One thing that is a bit puzzling is how to remove the recoil spring from the guide rod. It is not able to slid off the guide and I would like to replace it with a new one. IT looks like there is a pin on ne end. Is this drifted out to then remove the spring?

As to the rifling in the barrel. I don't see much difference between the 1935A barrel and my 1935S barrel. Both appear to be on the shallow side compared to other makes of semi-autos.
Last edited by Tuna on Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 1935A

#8 Post by Tuna » Sun Apr 01, 2018 4:19 pm

One thing that is a bit puzzling is how to remove the recoil spring from the guide rod. It is not able to slid off the guide and I would like to replace it with a new one. IT looks like there is a pin on ne end. Is this drifted out to then remove the spring?

As to the rifling in the barrel. I don't see much difference between the 1935A barrel and my 1935S barrel. Both appear to be on the shallow side compared to other makes of semi-autos.

Years ago I did own a Ruby but it was the civilian version. It had a missing magazine and someone modified a 1903 magazine and it worked well. My daughter has it now for her use in her home.

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Re: 1935A

#9 Post by SWIHARTMARK » Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:00 pm

Thanks for the info on the barrel. I feel better now.

I don't remember if I took the spring out or not. I wonder if Numrich's has them in stock.

Best Regards,

Mark

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Re: 1935A

#10 Post by SWIHARTMARK » Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:02 pm

Oh, if Numrich doesn't have a spring, I used McMaster and Carr, a manufacturing parts source, which I used for a model 1884 Mauser spring. I had to used three little ones to replace on big one though. After all the years in the rifle, it fell apart on one end.

Best Regards,

Mark

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Re: 1935A

#11 Post by Tuna » Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:16 pm

Mark I have used Wolff springs for just about all my firearms pistol, revolver and rifles that need spring replacement. I ordered one for the A and one for the S but found that the guide just does not come apart readily.

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Re: 1935A

#12 Post by 72 usmc » Tue Apr 03, 2018 11:09 am

They, the recoil spring on both pistols, are dogs to replace. You need a set of needle punches and you remove what ever end where the pin seem to be less hammed down. Those pins at each end are difficult to get out then you have to dress them up and reset and then hammer them down so the do not come out after the new spring is slid onto the assy. best to remove only one end . Which ever one you can get out without messing up the rod. Parts are hard to come by. The recoil spring is best left alone, unless your pistols were really used and weak. You need about 3 hands to hold the spring and set the pin without marring up the rod. :hand: :think:
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To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: 1935A

#13 Post by Tuna » Tue Apr 03, 2018 1:49 pm

Thank you for the information. This is what I needed to know.

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