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Model 95 Bolt

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AGB-1
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Model 95 Bolt

#1 Post by AGB-1 » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:02 am

I have a model 95 rifle that was shipped with the bolt removed.
What is the best way to put the bolt back in battery to insert it into the rifle?
I have seen all the you tube videos which show disassembling the bolt .
Any help appreciated. AGB-1

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Re: Model 95 Bolt

#2 Post by ffuries » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:28 am

You pull on the bolt, slip a dime into the gap and start sliding the bolt in then remove the dime. I would show pics but I've secured my guns for Irma. Hopefully someone will be along soon to give you better directions.

I have a dime that sits on the rifle rack behind my M95 just for that purpose. It's my cheap 10 cent bolt tool.
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72 usmc
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Re: Model 95 Bolt

#3 Post by 72 usmc » Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:20 pm

THE M95 is a dog, especially the mule kicker carbine, that is why after heart surgery I am dumping mine at the next gun show. one of the SOG rebuilt like new as if a Mosin M95 carbines where the blue is a new black and stock refinished like all arsenal rebuilds. A new bolt and like new barrel. But a dog to fire with the Nazi marked WW II ammo. Worse than a M44 or Jungle carbine- it rattles the bypasses and cause chest pain. So it goes.
So to get a bolt out make sure it's well oiled prior to removal, then push forward on the trigger and the bolt slides out, but care must be used so it does not decocked. A decoked bolt can be a symptom of a worn extractor tail. When removed the bolt should stay open if care was used. A sudden bump or hit and that bolt snaps closed and can not be reinserted back into the M95 receiver till it is recocked. Now you have a slight problem to fix if it always immediately snaps closed upon removal.

Your bolt most likely snapped closed from shipping, so you need to fist clean it inside and out. see http://www.surplusfirearm.com/2012/04/1 ... eassembly/

Note: those bolts are dogs to get back together correctly. Read up on it. Most bolts are filthy inside. So after it's clean, get a rag, then get a grip on the bolt body with the bare left hand and use the rag in the right hand to turn&twist/pull out the bolt head. It will twist and be very difficult to pull totally out to an open position where it clicks and stays open. If it does not stay open, you got a bad bolt, then use a third hand and a dime so you can pull it open and insert the dime tight up against the bolt body/ bolthead so the bolt can slide into the receiver. If your bolt is a dog that fails to stay open, it most likely will take excessive force to work the bolt in the carbine. A good bolt actually stays open and is much easier to work in the receiver. Be sure the bolt is greased inside and out with disc brake grease. If it is hit or tapped, a recocked M95 bolt slams shut -ASAP, and you are back to the start. An uncocked, closed M95 bolt can not be reinserted into the receiver.

After the M95 bolt is recocked/reset to open, push the trigger forward, and then
very carefully insert the bolt back into the receiver while holding the trigger forward. This makes for an easy insertion of the greased bolt. If the dime is against the bolt and is used to help a dog-worn bolt back into the receiver, after the bolt is inserted, remove the dime from the side and the bolt should function, but will have the same decocking problem when removed for cleaning the rifle.

Also see this written info for more detailed comments:
http://www.hungariae.com/M95bolt.htm
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

AGB-1
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Re: Model 95 Bolt

#4 Post by AGB-1 » Thu Sep 07, 2017 4:06 pm

Thanks for the replies.I will try the dime.

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Re: Model 95 Bolt

#5 Post by Smokey » Fri Sep 08, 2017 8:07 am

If you are a reloader the M95 carbines can be tamed into a decent little woods carbine and fun shooter.

When reassembling the bolt (be warned, it's difficult)
TOTALLY IGNORE THE DRY IS GOOD IDIOTS.
The inside of the bolt needs to be well lubricated with a good quality grease to work smoothly.

Most have a really odd bore and forcing cone relationship, If you use cast bullets you'll get good results with what would normally be considered oversize bullets.
This seems to work well in most: http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=33_239
It's specifically designed for the M95, to handle the huge forcing cone, wide groove diameter and tight land diameters.
- Forcing cone and case neck easily accept 0.338 bullets.
- Land diameter is usually around 0.315.
- Groove diameter runs from 0.329 to 0.336.
I've seen good results with hard cast NOE bullets sized to 0.338 in the carbines I've helped with.
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Re: Model 95 Bolt

#6 Post by wjh » Sat Sep 09, 2017 11:48 pm

I think I've got around 250 rounds of the Nazi marked ammo. You want plenty of padding
when firing that stuff. It is like shouldering a small cannon. I'm not sure I'll ever shoot
'any more of it.

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Re: Model 95 Bolt

#7 Post by Nevada Hudson » Wed Sep 13, 2017 7:19 pm

Sorry you guys don't like the recoil, I kind of think it is thrilling along with the muzzle flash!
But, this is from someone with no health issues and fires a Civil Car cannon.

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Re: Model 95 Bolt

#8 Post by Rapidrob » Wed Sep 13, 2017 7:23 pm

The long rifle is worse. All the powder is burned!
Cock the bolt BEFORE you open it,it really makes it easy to operate,unless your doing rapid firing.
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