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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 9:08 pm 
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I've been meaning to do this for some time and finally got around to it. We're going to tackle barrel removal on a Polish Wz-48 .22 training rifle. I had a couple barreled receivers sitting around and thought that I would figure it out and post my results.

Here we go.

Your barreled receiver will look just like this-

Image

On the left side of the receiver you will see this-

Image

On the right side of the receiver you will see this (please note the difference from the left side)-

Image

The right side will have been peened over the end of the pin to keep it from drifting out, although I'm not sure that one of these barrels would have EVER drifted out of the receiver! You will want to drive the pin out from right to left, or peened side to the non-peened side.

I broke one punch but I also used one that wasn't the right size. I then switched over to a 7/32" punch and finished the job. It didn't take too much to get it out, but I did have to drive two nails into my bench to hold the receiver while I did it. Any way you can figure out to hold the receiver securely will do just fine.

After I got the pin out, I put the barreled receiver down and put a piece of flat stock on the flat of the receiver like so. This was done to transfer the force of the hammer blows to the receiver without subjecting the receiver to being damaged. I used my 7 1/2 year old to hold the flat stock for me.

Image

Image

After opening up the gap between the barrel shank and receiver I shot some Kroil into the gap and then proceeded to hit it a few more times to break the receiver free. The interesting thing about the barreled receiver that I chose for this was that the receiver was actually numbered to the barrel shank, something that wasn't done that often at all.

Image

This is what you will have when you're done-

Image

You know how folks tell you not to dry fire a .22? Well, this is why they tell you not to do that! You can, and will, easily damage the upper half of the chamber.

Image

With the barrel removed fixing this damage is quite easy; just get a small rat tail file and smooth it out. While you're at it, smooth out the face as well.

Some of you may be wondering why I went to all this trouble. I did it 'cause I was bored, I wanted to add to the knowledge base of the Wz-48 trainers, AND I wanted to ream one of these bad boys out to .22 Magnum!

Oh yeah, that means putting it all back together again when I'm done reaming it out. Quite right! This barrel and receiver had crude witness marks on the underside of the barrel shank and the receiver. If yours does not, then it's a simple matter to scribe witness marks before you take the two pieces apart.

One of the interesting things I found out about the Wz-48 is that the screw that holds the trigger bar in place as well as the screw that holds the action in the stock both screw into threaded holes in the underside of the receiver that go all the way to the barrel shank, acting as a kind of set screw.

As soon as I get a .22 Magnum reamer I will proceed to ream this out, put it back together again, then shoot it. I will, of course, post my findings here for all to see. If anyone has a .22 Magnum reamer I would greatly appreciate borrowing it. :D

Regards,
Eric

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:06 pm 
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Thank you for posting it Eric.

The picture you posted show exactly what happen when the rifle is dry fired witout a case inside the chamber.

Can you provide me the measures of the barrlel's part inside the chamber ( diameter and lenght)?
I would like to make a tech draw of all the wz48 parts, during my very little spare time......


Best regards!

Alberto.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:10 pm 
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Sure thing my friend! Just to be clear, are you wanting the measurements of the portion of the chamber/barrel that goes into the receiver, or the actual dimesions of the chamber?

Regards,
Eric

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 9:05 am 
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Have you been successful in making the conversion to .22 Mag.? My searching has indicated that there are barrel bore differences between .22 LR and .22 Mag. Is this correct and, if so, would those differences cause a problem?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 1:19 pm 
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BruceR wrote:
Have you been successful in making the conversion to .22 Mag.? My searching has indicated that there are barrel bore differences between .22 LR and .22 Mag. Is this correct and, if so, would those differences cause a problem?


I haven't done it yet. I've spoken to a couple of folks at gunshows that said all they did was buy a reamer and it worked great. Then I spoke to a gunsmith friend of mine about converting 10 for me to sell, and the work involved (translate that into cold hard cash leaving my pocket and going into his) was more than the conversion was worth or would make me. I'm not sure if he was trying to persuade/scare me into let him do it, or if the issues really are that complex. Bottom line is that I've steered away from the project for now. If I do indeed do it sometime, it would be a one-off for me alone and I would let everyone know what I did and how. For me to do it for rifles that I plan on reselling, the liability issue is too great to be homemade and I would need to use my gunsmith friend.

Regards,
Eric

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 11:23 am 
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The dryfire damage can easily be fixed without removing the barrel using a .22LR reamer. Too bad you can't turn the reamer backwards and tighten the chamber up to Bentz dimensions.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:45 pm 
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rr2241tx wrote:
The dryfire damage can easily be fixed without removing the barrel using a .22LR reamer. Too bad you can't turn the reamer backwards and tighten the chamber up to Bentz dimensions.


You might be able to fix the damage to the face but unless you add material to the chamber the firing pin won't strike the bullet hard enough to set it off most of the time.

Regards,
Eric

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:53 pm 
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That is my understanding that there is a bore differences between the 22 lr and the 22 mag. I would be interested in your results also.
Garbear

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 3:56 pm 
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There's a nominal 0.001" difference in the .22LR and the .22WMR bullet. You'd have to measure a lot of bullets to find a statistically significant difference in the actual difference as manufactured.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:53 am 
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See, it's threads like this that get me thinking about a shot out WZ-48 sleeved down to 17HMR. Just the cost of getting the barrel sleeve, chamber reamer, pilot drill, etc. makes not cost effective. Perhaps if I win the lottery......


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 9:42 pm 
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lurch556 wrote:
See, it's threads like this that get me thinking about a shot out WZ-48 sleeved down to 17HMR. Just the cost of getting the barrel sleeve, chamber reamer, pilot drill, etc. makes not cost effective. Perhaps if I win the lottery......


You're right. That's why I have a few barreled actions laying around for just such a rainy, lottery-winning, day.

Regards,
Eric

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 7:40 pm 
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I am not sure about the nominal difference between 22lr and 22wmr, but I DO KNOW that mt ruger single six, with both cylinders is a straight up tack driver at 25yds......with both cylinders.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:14 am 
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Preachere wrote:
You know how folks tell you not to dry fire a .22? Well, this is why they tell you not to do that! You can, and will, easily damage the upper half of the chamber.
Image
With the barrel removed fixing this damage is quite easy; just get a small rat tail file and smooth it out.

rr2241tx wrote:
The dryfire damage can easily be fixed without removing the barrel using a .22LR reamer. Too bad you can't turn the reamer backwards and tighten the chamber up to Bentz dimensions.


Brownells special tool:

Image


Last edited by edlmann on Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 1:03 am 
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Thanks edlmann! I don't need one now but will store that bit of information in the back of my head so when I DO need one again I will know there is such a tool.

Regards,
Eric

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