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BLO on Arisaka stock?

Arisaka, Murata, Siamese, Korean, and North China Rifles
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Hammy
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BLO on Arisaka stock?

#1 Post by Hammy » Sat Oct 20, 2018 9:17 am

Hey fella's, I need an answer to a question. It's that time of year when I empty the safe and detail clean and oil the collection. I know this has been discussed here before, but I think it was before the crash. If I do a BLO cleaning of the stock, will the original finish be harmed in any way? I have a type 99 and a type 38 carbine, and I want to check before doing something that will get me yelled at. Thanks. Jim....
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Re: BLO on Arisaka stock?

#2 Post by 72 usmc » Sat Oct 20, 2018 12:59 pm

Like most Jar heads, I yearly clean the bore and swab a thick coat of 30W car/motor oil in the bore and wipe down the metal with 10W motor oil. Bolts are greased with GAA or clear disc brake grease. Prior to shooting one needs to reclean the thick oil from the bore and chamber. But for storage it's fine for a year or two out in the shed. For your consideration:

Why mess up an original finish and greatly reduce the value of the rifle? Do you just want to clean or refresh the wood?

I would just do a light wipe down with Kotton Klenser wood feeder :dance: :dance: Do not apply a thick coat and let it sit. DO JUST A LIGHT WIPE OF THE SURFACE ON THE WOOD.
51hVXBRyOYL._SL1001_.jpg
http://www.kottonklenser.com
see http://www.kottonklenser.com/kk/instruct.htm
Re: Renaissance Wax for protecting metal and wood
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Post by 72 usmc » Sat Mar 31, 2018 11:03 pm

It is a very fine wax that can be used on metals to stabilize the surface on more contemporary metal artifacts after they are cleaned. It does have a habit of collecting dust in outdoor exhibits and with artifacts in hot buildings that do not have climate controls. It can be used on wood.

I like H F Staples Carnauba wax both the clear and especially the antique orange/amber paste wax. This is good on marble and wood floors, and also furniture. It produces a hard coat that repels water. It goes on thin so you have protection, but does not produce a pimp shine to an old stock. However, put too much on and you turn a vintage stock into an altered piece of wood that looks like you polished a stock. That can remove the dry wood look and replace it with a waxed surface look like on furniture. Nice on some hunting rifles, but not a Mauser or old flintlock rifle. If you do not want a waxed look on an antique rifle then Kotton klenser wood feeder restores the wood surface, it gives the dry wood natural oils, yet avoids a wax surface like seen on new hunting rifles. For cleaning old clocks or furniture of years of built up grime, the " patina," Kotton Klenser cleaner actually removes some of the surface color & dirt. But it takes a skillful play at application & removal to maintain an even "patina." Like one is cleaning the years of grime off an oil painting, but its wood. I find the wood feeder is good for me. The KK cleaner works great on steps to remove wax build up and even out the wear patterns. Like Murphys oil soap, but a better product. The KK cleaner is just too strong for my taste on rifle stocks.

Renaissance wax is used on metal and it goes into the surface when applied hot & thin. It can be used on wood, but it is not as protective as a harder wax. There are better choices for wood artifacts. At our medieval fair the guys use it on the metal repro swords and armor. At the museum, we would use it on lumber camp metal artifacts and common iron tools and long saws. Tool collectors use it. When used on wood, go lightly and rub it in & off asap- almost like none was applied. It will restore the dry wood and deepen the color of the stock without producing a high sheen. I just find the Kotton Klenser wood feeder cream with natural wood oils works best for this. On metal it works better than heavy 30w oil because it attracts less dust than oil. Hanging a rifle on a wall or in a display case, I would use the wax on the metal. In a gun safe for long term storage or a basement, I use 30w or 40w car oil inside the bore and out side. Nothing like a nice coat of oil. GAA on the bolt and action. Sure you have to clean it prior to shooting, but I do not get rust.
You can clean it a bit with a light mineral spirit wipe or better, is also an application of Kotton Klenser wood feeder cream. Other ideas search out cleaning expensive antique furniture. Some use a light wipe of lemon oil others a furniture oil with pigment. Some like Orange oil, I use this first over lemon oil, second some use walnut oil, Old English lemon oil, KK lemon oil & beeswax, others Howards Feed -N-Wax. Each can produce a different look. I do not like a pimp shine or waxy look. Hence, I use the KK wood feeder or Orange oil to refresh a dry dirty stock. This is one reference I have used that has somme interesting info:
https://digitalcommons.usu.edu/cgi/view ... on_histall
Some history:
http://www.panzergrenadier.net/forum/vi ... =19&t=2878


Here are some ideas:

https://forums.gunboards.com/showthread ... h-question
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthr ... ock-Finish
https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/sho ... p?t=656486
http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorer ... article/#9
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewto ... =61&t=1198
https://theprovince.com/life/furniture- ... -furniture

A BLO scrub is too drastic for me. I want a rifle stock to look like it's not messed with or waxed like a table top. The best cleaning job is when someone picks up the rifle and says," it's original finish", but I would polish this up a bit with Toms 1/3 wax. :lol: :lol: :roll: :roll:
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: BLO on Arisaka stock?

#3 Post by 72 usmc » Sat Oct 20, 2018 2:10 pm

Look at the original finish and patina of this rifle-- priceless
The wood dings & dents are not filled in or coated over with a wax or colored finish. This is the quality of original patina worth maintaining.

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewto ... =15&t=2220

This is a high shine Persian Mauser that had an original shine to the finish that was lightly wiped down with KK wood feeder.
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewto ... =18&t=1998
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: BLO on Arisaka stock?

#4 Post by Hammy » Tue Oct 23, 2018 4:31 pm

I think the intent of my question was not totally clear. I was wondering if I give the stock a rub down with linseed oil, will the oil soak thru the original Japanese finish and into the wood without damaging the original finish. I don't want the wood to dry out more then it already has over the past 75 or so years. But I also don't want to lose any patina the stocks have acquired. I do appreciate the links you have provided above, you definitely dipped into your bag of knowledge. Sorry if this is rambling but I'm working nights this week, Sunday thru Friday, and it's been one heck of a week already!
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Re: BLO on Arisaka stock?

#5 Post by 72 usmc » Wed Oct 24, 2018 2:34 pm

I would just use Kotton Klenser wood feeder- a light wipe will not hurt the original finish, but it will return some oil into the stock. Get some and try it on an old finished piece of wood. I think you will like the results. I never use BLO. A fellow archaeologist at The Ancient Buried city wiped down the oak display cases with the garbage- it did not dry, it attracted more dust, and left a sticky finish in the 100 degree Ky. climate. Trust me, get a jar and use some on a trial piece of finish-- you will like it. Great stuff. You can leave it sit over night on very dry wood like cant hooks or pviey handles on logging camp artifacts. Just do not get any on a Hodag :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
If you think it sucks I will buy it and pay shipping to me. I am due for a new jar. It is about $7-11 per 8 oz jar of Kotton Klenser Protective wood feeder. Better furniture repair shops have it for sale.
Semper Fi
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: BLO on Arisaka stock?

#6 Post by Hammy » Thu Oct 25, 2018 9:19 am

I remember a few years back everyone was using Howard's Feed. Then it was you must use Tom's 1/3 mix. In and amongst that was either linseed oil or tung oil. Pay day is coming up, so since I have 2 Arisaka', a Swiss, a Mauser, a Mosin, an 03A3, and an M1, a jar won't be that much of an investment. So what was your final rank? I managed to make corporal. Semper Fi!
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Re: BLO on Arisaka stock?

#7 Post by 72 usmc » Thu Oct 25, 2018 10:34 am

Be sure its not the cleaner, get "Protective Wood feeder". see PM
It does not have a wax in it.
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: BLO on Arisaka stock?

#8 Post by 72 usmc » Thu Oct 25, 2018 1:17 pm

Here is our vets day display from last year. It has some of my USMC stuff. I kept my Blues. Each year we set up a display for the kids. All of my goodies are used. Due to the liberal climate no firearms, even reproductions, or other things like Nazi/Japanese or campaign ribbons can be displayed. Twenty years ago we could display a rifle or two. All ammo must be practice or demilled. No live stuff due to fire codes. An all U.S. display.
s-l1600.png
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: BLO on Arisaka stock?

#9 Post by S.B. » Sun Oct 28, 2018 4:00 pm

I read somewhere the original finish on Arisakas was a derivative of Sumac and should not be attempted to refinish as it may cause skin irritation? Someone here( I think )argued this point with me, on this.
Steve

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